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Full text of Route 51 (1854)
Brousa to Smyrna, by Suleimanli and Sardis.
Days Hrs.
Hassan Aga 1 6
Kirmasli 1 6
Kesterlek 1 4
Adranos and Haidar } 1 9
Harmanjik and Eshen köi } 1 8
Taushauli, from Harmanjik 0 8
Azani 1 10
Ghiediz 0 8
Ushak 0 10
Ahad köi 0 6
Sejikler 0 5
Kobek 0 8
Suleimanli 0 2
Takmak 1 6
Kulah 0 8
Adala 0 8
Sardis 0 12
Smyrna 1 12

[The following route was performed by Mr. W. J. Hamilton, in the year 1836. As it includes a part of Asia Minor hitherto not visited, it has been thought advisable to give the route as extracted from his journal.]

Hassan Aga, the first day’s journey, is a village due W. of Brousa, affording no accommodation for travellers.

The route now follows a course W. by S., and soon comes down upon the lake of Apollonia, and continues on its S. shore.

Kirmasli, 1 day. 1 h. hence are the ruins of a large town at Hamamli. There are some remains of solid walls, and the ground is covered with fragments of pottery and tiles.

Kesterlek, a small village 4 h. farther up the Rhyndacus. Here are the remains of a castle perched upon a hill, commanding the pass of the river, probably Byzantine, and one of those said to have been erected in the middle ages, to defend the passes of Olympus against the Turks. A long and tedious march over high hills and through fine woods brings the traveller to

Adranos, — Here are the remains of an ancient town, without doubt those of Hadriani, situated at the foot of a limestone hill, on the l. Bank of the river. Part of a large square building, 58 paces by 65, remains standing. It is built of huge massive stones, put together without cement; the wall remaining is about 30 or 40 ft. high, and within are some remains of smaller walls: it may have been a gymnasium. Without, heaps of stones, with beautiful Ionic and Doric sculpture, mark the site of 2 temples; there are besides numerous columns built into the walls of the adjoining fields, together with traces of ancient walls in other directions. Close to the Rhyndacus are the remains of a Byzantine castle. There are many Greek inscriptions in the adjoining village of Beyjik, 2 m. off, but none of them contain the name of the town.

The route now lies on the l. bank of the Rhyndacus till we reach the village of Ahaj-hissar, where we cross it in the midst of beautiful rocky scenery, at a narrow gorge, where is another Byzantine castle.

Haidar, a wretched village; but the inhabitants received Mr. Hamilton most hospitably, as strangers sent by Providence, whom it was their duty to assist. Leaving Hadiar, the road again rejoins the Rhyndacus, and, after following its course for some distance, stikes off into a valley to the rt. and reaches

Harmanjik, where fresh horses are to be had.

Eshen köi, a village on the top of a ridge of hills. The cottages, or huts, are all built of logs, and roofed with split deal.

The traveller now passes through a fine forest with beautiful scenery. The road lies chiefly S.E. and E.; in about 3½ h. he arrives at some sepulchral chambers cut in the rocks lt. of the road. They appear to be Phrygian in character, but one only remains tolerably perfect. It was probably the Necropolis of some ancient town, but no ruins are to be heard of in the vicinity. The road crosses the Rhyndacus at

Taushauli, which is 8 h. distant from Harmanjik. The road recrosses the Rhyndacus, and continues over some high hills, and descends into the plain of Azani and Æzani, passing through Oranjik.

Azani, 10 h. Its ruins are described in Rte. 49.

Ghiediz, 8 h. On this day’s journey the traveller crosses the Rhyndacus several times up to the sources, following one of the longer branches of the river. Ghiediz was the ancient Kadus, or Kados; its situation is extraordinary; the stream which flows through it is a tributary of the Hermus. Instead of flowing down the valley by the lowest level, it works its way through a narrow chasm 200 ft. deep, and not 10 wide at the bottom, which appears to have been rent by an earthquake through the basaltic rock.

Ushak, called 8h., but in reality 10. The ride hither is beautiful, over a mountainous and untravelled district; trap and basaltic rocks burst up in various directions, and contain some fine varieties of obsidian. Ushak is famous for its manufacture of Turkey carpets, which are sent to Smyrna. It is the place where all the best and largest are made. The process of making them is very rude and simple, worked in the open air, and in the coarsest of frames. There are several inscriptions at Ushak, in the walls of the mosque and other traces of antiquity. They are said to be brought from Ahad köi.

Ahad köi, 6 h. On the summit of a hill here are the remains of a theatre, with half the scena and proscenium standing, built of very large blocks of stone; all the seats of the cavea are gone, but the hollow remains. Another theatre, and the foundation and ground-plan of a small temple, together with walls of the Acropolis, may also be traced. ¼ m. from the village are the site and foundations of another temple, while fragments of sculpture are lying about in all directions. It is probable that these are the remains of Trajanopolis.

Sejikler, 5 h. From an inscription lying in front of the mosque, it appears that this place is on the site of Sebaste. A number of marbles lie scattered over the village and burying-ground.

Kobek, or Gobek, 8 h., nearly E. over a continued plain, intersected by ravines and valleys, sometimes excavated to such a depth as to make a person travelling in them fancy that he is in a mountainous country.

Suleimanli, 2 h. The situation of these interesting ruins is striking, the Acropolis being formed by the junction of 2 of the ravines just described. Outside the gate are the remains of an aqueduct crossing the undulating grounds, and it may be traced for some way along the hills on the route to Takmak and Kulah. There are 2 roads from Suleimanli to Takmak; the one passes to the S. of, and the other through, a mass of black volcanic hills, and is very dreary.

Takmak, 6 h., the residence of an Agha.

The road now proceeds to a wretched village called Aktash, and then across a fine rich country to

Kulah, 8 h. (See Rte. 43.) A mile from the town we come suddenly in sight of its black conical volcano, from the summit of which is a splendid view; several other volcanic cones are in sight, of much older date. The traveller is now fairly in the Katakekaumene. The country bears a strong resemblance to central France. The road lies over a great deal of volcanic country.

Adala, 8 h. Here we cross the Hermus. A stream of black lava flows behind the town out of the same narrow gorge through which the Hermus also flows. Water and time have conquered the lava, and in the narrow gorge the stream of the river has almost obliterated all traces of it.

The traveller is now in the plain of the Hermus, and in quite a new climate; vegetation is a month in advance of the places he has left. The road proceeds by the Gygæan lake and the tomb of Alyattes. The journey the whole day is through the rich plain of the Hermus, scattered with the black tents of the Turcomans.

Sardis, 12 h. See Rte. 30. The road lies along the foot of Mount Tmolus, with the Kiziljah Musa Tagh of the Turks on the l., and Hermus on the rt.; it passes through Casaba to Smyrna.