Ruins of Limyra – Myra – Antiphellus – Patara – Xanthus – Tlos – Telmessus – Miletus and Priene.

	Dys.	Ho.	Mil.
Tekrova, by sea	0	5	0
Deliktash (Olympus), by sea	0	3	0
Mount Chimæra (the Yanar)	0	0	2
Atrasarny (from Delik-tash)	0	3	0
Hadji Valley (Gagæ)	0	7	0
Phineka, by Limyra	0	4½	0
Kakava, by sea	0	5	0
(Return to Phineka)
Myra	0	9	0
Cassabar	0	9	0
Antiphellus	0	0	7
Suaret	0	4½	0
Bazeeryan-köi	0	6½	0
Patara	0	4	0
Koonik	0	3	0
Xanthus	0	0	2
Demelheer	0	0	16
Doover, about	0	0	16
Tlos	0	0	8
(Return to Doover)
Macry (Telmessus)	0	7	22
Dollomon	0	0	40
Koogez	0	0	25
Hoola	0	0	40
Moola	0	0	12
Acrui-köi	0	0	24
Dollomon	0	0	40
Esky Hissar (Stratonicæa)	0	0	8
Melassa (Mylasa)	0	0	24
Baffy	0	0	24
Pallattia (Miletus)	0	0	20
Sansoon	1	0	0
Chauly (Neapolis)	0	0	15
Scala Nuova	1	0	0
Ayasaluk (Ephesus)	0	3	0
Aidin or Ghieuzel-hissar (Tralles)	0	12	50
Gheyra	0	14½	0
Laodicea (Esky-hissar)	0	13	0
Hierapolis	0	1½	0
Aineh Ghieul	0	0	50
Philadelphia	0	0	16
Sardis	0	9	36
Cassaba	0	0	28
Smyrna	0	0	48

Tekrova, the ancient Phaselis. The harbour and port of Phaselis are extremely well built, and very interesting, but small. The theatre, stadium, and temples, may be traced. Several of the buildings here are constructed of highly ornamental materials. The situation of the place at the foot of a lofty range of mountains is very picturesque.

Olympus, now called Deliktash, and also Cheereluh, about 3 hours' sail. The traces of the Greek town are slight, but the surrounding hills are covered with walls and houses in ruins of Venetian construction. One of the temples has been on a grand scale. There is an inscription on a pedestal at the doorway, and another which also formed the top of a doorway.

About 2 m. from the coast, through a fertile plain, and then ascending a woody glen, the traveller arrives at the Yanar, or volcanic flame, which issues perpetually from the mountain (Pliny, Bk. ii., c. 106, v. 27). Pliny says, “Mount Chimæra, near Phaselis, emits an unceasing flame that burns day and night.” Capt. Beaufort observed it from the ship during the night as a small but steady light among the hills.

From Deliktash a land journey of 3 h. brings the traveller to Atrasarny, and thence 7 h. to Hadjivalley, the ancient Gagæ, where there are a solitary rock tomb and the remains of a small theatre. The road from Gagæ to Phineka (distant 4½ h.) passes the remains of the ancient Limyra. On the road are clusters of Lycian tombs, with Lycian inscriptions; one is bilingual, and has the Greek letters painted red, and Phœnician instead of Lycian painted blue.

Limyra (no modern settlement) lies 2 h. walk N.E. of Phineka. Here there are numerous rock-tombs. One square isolated tomb, rather in advance of the rest, bears the first Greco-Lycian inscription published by Cockerell; numerous bas-reliefs over the tombs retain vestiges of blue and red colours. There are 2 rock-tombs ornamented with Ionic columns, bold details and pediments. Remains of massive walls lie just before the theatre, which is of moderate size, and, not being built against a hill, has a corridor running round it. Near this, a little way up the mountain, stands a noble sarcophagus monument, with an arched lid scarcely less rich and elegant than the one formerly at Xanthus. On the side of the lid is a chariot and horses, and beneath an elegant egg-moulding of pure Greek style is a series of bas-reliefs, very much injured; to the S. a priest holding a sacrificial vase, and a youth holding the horns and muzzle of an ox; W. an old man and naked youth; E. a sitting figure. The row of round beam-ends peculiar to Lycian tombs is to be seen on this monument also.

Phineka, 4½ h., is a little village on a navigable river, 2 m. from the sea; it consists of a few houses, the konak and custom-house, being a place of export for firewood. The palm-tree, which gives name to the district, is abundant here, and shoots up wild. On the road from Limyra the numerous streams are crossed by bridges.

From Phineka the traveller may visit by sea the small port of Kakava, 5 h. To the W., the ancient Aguræ, situated on the coast, facing the island of Kakava, among numerous ruined fortifications. The Turkish town is now quite deserted. Returning to Phineka, the inland route proceeds to Myra, the road to which is a terribly steep mountain track, almost impassable for horses. On one of the mountain heights (4800 ft.) are sarcophagi, ancient walls, and several square Greek towers; at the foot an old Turk fortress. The view looking down on Cape Khelidonia (Prom. Sacrum) is magnificent.

Myra, 9 h., where St. Paul touched on his voyage to Rome (Acts xxvii. 5), situated at the foot of an angle of rock facing on one side the plain of the Dembre-Chai, and on the other stretching by the side of the Andraki river to the ancient port of the city Andriace. To the W. stands the old konak or Agha’s house, which is a characteristic specimen of the former mode of decorating a Turkish mansion. It has unfortunately been deserted, but the carvings and paintings of the chimneys and ceilings are beautiful and elaborate. The ancient Theatre, one of the most imposing in Asia Minor, although of late Roman times, is a rich specimen of florid classic architecture. The enormous corridors and double galleries of the largest and finest masonry recall the grandeur of similar buildings at Rome itself. A broad diazoma and upright wall, to separate the 2 levels of seats, contains at the back a statue, with a Greek inscription over it, representing the fortune of the city, with emblems of fruit, cornucopia, and rudder. The architectural fragments are of elaborate composite style, with wild animals playing among the graceful foliage. Upon one of the panels of a ceiling is a large tragic mask. The proscenium is very perfect, especially the E. angle; over a side-door is a well-wrought Medusa head. A fine column, with smooth shaft and capital, with a pilaster adjoining, still support the entablature, richly coffered and moulded. The diameter of the exterior is 360 ft.; there are 20 seats below the diazoma, and 7 above. Above and around the theatre are to be seen innumerable rock-tombs, some of wonderful beauty, with inscriptions and bas-reliefs of funereal scenes. On the heights above are the remains of a recent fortification and walls.

In the surface of the rock, towards the Dembre-Chai, is an interesting group of rock-tombs, covering the entire surface of a perpendicular rock; these are reached by crossing a Turkish burial-ground, many stones of which are remains of Greek sculpture and inscriptions. The principal tomb in the group on this side is high up in the rock, and approached by a long flight of steps; a series of statues, life-size, adorn the sides of the façade, and seem to have a funereal reference. The inner front of the tomb, with the usual panels, is so far set back as to leave a square chamber, with open framework in front; and the two side walls are enriched with good sculpture of domestic groups, life-size, which, being protected from the external air, retain their original variety of colour. Copies of these are in the Lycian Room of the British Museum.

Following the other angle of the rock, beyond the theatre and konak is an extensive building filled now by a large cluster of wild palm-trees. This seems to have been a public building of ancient times, and, except the theatre, the only building referable to the classic period. Further on towards the Andraki are a large conventual establishment, the old ruins of the ch. and the Greek monastery of St. Nicolas. A large array of wooden granaries surrounds this curious group of building. The old Christian church is well worth a visit; it has a low small modern ch. in the centre, affording by its size and construction a singular contrast. The traveller will do best to halt here, as the Greek priest has an extensive range of apartments, besides his own house, which he sometimes gives up to favoured guests; but the wayfarer will do well to make use of the Levinge beds.

Pursuing the same direction, and keeping the theatre cliffs on the rt., will be found the head of the Andraki river, or rather creek of the sea, for the water at its head, in a building like a large bath, is quite brackish. This bath consists of a square apartment, with 2 large arches and 6 niches; the remains of a large tomb or temple are near it. The river is narrow, but navigable. On the rt. bank are many sarcophagi of peculiar shapes, with tablets for inscription; but too much corroded to be legible. On a high and well-wooded prominence, to the l. of the river, are the remains of a temple, which form a pretty object in the scene and are visible from Myra, although near the coast. At the entrance to the river, on the same side, is an extensive Roman building, known by an inscription, which extends along the whole of the front, to have been a granary. Large beds of sand are deposited at the entrance of the river, as at Xanthus and Patara.

Cassabar, 7h. Following the mountain gorge of the Dembre-Chai, 5 h. brings the traveller to the head of the plain of Cassabar; the rocks at the outlet are crowned with Lycian tombs and square buildings. Many extensive remains may be explored in the upper part of this valley. The village of Cassabar, surrounded by trees and well-watered plantations, consists of a konak, a bazar, a large domed mosque with minaret, and solidly built houses. The Agha of Myra generally resides here.

The road to Antiphellus lies through magnificent mountain scenery, with infinite variety of view in all directions; the mountain plain of Arvalah has a sarcophagus and wall at the S. extremity. The descent of 7 m. upon Antiphellus is by a broad and good road. The island of Castellorizzo lies a mile or 2 out in the sea, and the sheltered position of its little town is well seen from this elevation.

Antiphellus, 2 h., a modern Greek scala, called Andiffelo, and chiefly used as a port to the busy town of the adjacent island, with which there is a constant traffic. The little town is rapidly improving and much increased; warehouses are built, and the strangers’ house at the end of a little tongue of land is exceedingly comfortable.

The theatre of the ancient Antiphellus is perfectly free from the rocks, and backed with fine masonry, but without corridors or passages. The proscenium has entirely disappeared. One large sarcophagus tomb, with arched lid, stands prominently, and, although without bas-reliefs, has a very important inscription; some other rock-tombs have bas-reliefs retaining colour. At some distance from the scala, up the hill, is a large square building, with Doric pilasters and rosettes at the corner; the door quite perfect, of very remarkable form, with sloping jambs and heading like the so-called tomb of Theron at Agrigentum. Much of the building is massive rock left standing and faced with separate stones here and there. A wall to seems to have originally enclosed it.

Suaret, 4½ h. A steep ascent to Suaret, where several rock-tombs, sarcophagi, and extensive walls mark the site of an ancient city, perhaps Phellus. Of this opinion is Sir C. Fellows, but Spratt (Lycia) and others take this to the site of Pyrrha, mentioned by Pliny. Spratt considers the ruins at Tshukusli, N. of Antiphellus, to be those of Phellus. The mountain range of this part of the route is wonderfully bold and elevated, as may be seen on looking across to the heights of Cragus, on the other side of the Xanthus valley.

Bazeeryanköi, 6½ h. A small village at a great elevation above the sea. The road hence to Patara leaves Kalamaki below to the l. and passes

Fornas, a busy Turk village, about 6 m. from the coast.

Patara, 4 h., a very celebrated city and flourishing seaport in ancient times. Here was the great seat of Apollo, whose oracles were delivered in the winter. A large number of Greek tombs and remains of temples are found here; one large doorway 24 ft. high, with Corinthian ornaments within a portico in antis, lies across a marsh. A magnificent cluster of palm-trees fills one of the large buildings, that may have been a gymnasium or treasury. A large triple gate led into the city; it has brackets between the arches to support statues, and square niches or blank windows. A Greek inscription along the corona mentions “Patara the metropolis of the Lycian nation.”

The theatre is excavated in the N. side of a small hill, 265 ft. in diameter, with 34 rows of seats, and a very complete proscenium, with all the adjoining rooms. An inscription on the side of the E. wall of the proscenium shows that it was built by Qu. Velius Titianus, and dedicated by his daughter Velia Proela in the 4th consulate of Antoninus Pius (A.D. 145). The sand, drifting in in heaps, threatens shortly to completely overwhelm this important structure.

The theatre had a diazoma and 2 arched vomitories dividing the rows of seats equally, and between the orchestra and lowest seats a broad band like a diazoma, and peculiar architecturally to this building. A small ruined temple stands on the side of the same hill, and close by but nearer the summit is a deep circular pit, with a flight of steps leading to the bottom, conjectured by Beaufort to be the seat of the oracle. The town walls and towers may be easily traced. In a wood E. of the city is a solitary rock-tomb, with Greek inscription, 3 ill-cut figures and 2 open hands on a side mullion. The grave seems to have been occupied by some early Christians, if we may judge by the similarity to known works of art by that sect in pagan times.

To Koonik, 3 h., along a level plain, part of which swamps compel the traveller to skirt.

Xanthus. The city of Xanthus, called also by its inhabitants Arna, was the capital of Lycia. In the reign of Cyrus the Great it was conquered by his general Harpagus. Herodotus relates that the inhabitants, having collected their wives, children, and property in the citadel, set fire to them, and then, sallying out upon the invaders sword in hand, all perished except 80 families.

The ruins of Xanthus are on the W. bank of the river of the same name, 2 m. from Koonik: they are of a very early date. One of the most conspicuous monuments is a large square stele, about 16 ft. high, with white Parian marble slabs let into the upper part, and covered with a flat projecting top of 3 steps reversed. The brilliant white is visible from the sea, shining like a star against the deep blue sky. This monument is placed at the E. slope of the rocky heights that rise above the site of the ancient city. The rock supporting it is excavated into the usual Lycian tombs, mostly inscribed with the Lycian characters. Immediately below and E. of this is the root and base of the celebrated Paiafa tomb, now transported to the British Museum. In its original position it formed a beautiful and noble feature in the landscape, breaking the monotony of the scene as the eye wandered along the “Lyciæ dumeta,” and contrasting beautifully with the view in the opposite direction, looking to the river and the calm sea with the sacred hill of Patara to the l. Behind the great rocky heights to the N. may be found the sarcophagus and fragments of the Chimæra tomb, the lid of which is now in the British Museum. It lies overthrown among thick tangles of the prickly oak. The rocky cliffs on this side have also been excavated into Lycian tombs, many of them wonderfully perfect. Below the remains of the Paiafa tomb to the E. are traces of excellent polygonal masonry and a gateway with enormous pier-stones; near this again stood the so-called Lion Tomb, now in the British Museum.

Polygonal walls of exquisite masonry occur very frequently on this side of the town. The main pathway leading up in the direction we have traversed passes by a well-built wall, with a series of columns and pedestals flanking a flat field, which may have been the Sarpedonium. Above this, at the foot of the heights, S. side, is a handsome arch-topped sarcophagus tomb, with a Lycian inscription; a rough arch of very recent masonry is near it. On the top of the rocky heights themselves is a very curious range of buildings, evidently Christian and of a late epoch, but interesting from its arrangement and the stuccoes and colours employed upon it. The walls are chiefly composed of rubble and loose stones, and upon this a wonderfully hard stucco of marble, &c., seems to have been spread. The form of the early Christian church, with the round apse, is clearly traceable; another apartment behind this, with double apses, is remarkable, and many other chambers surround them again. The tribune is turned directly E.; at the opposite end is a large square court, with a well in the centre. The ambulatory or cloister was paved with small bits of red tile, set in a bed of white cement.

On the extreme side, again below and to the E. of the Sarpedonium, appears to have been a large Christian church, judging from the remains of a large building, with the apse or tribune directed due E. Descending to the level of the plain, and looking due W., are the remains of a city gateway, erected, as the Greek inscription on the E. side tells us, in the reign of Vespasian. The metopes were adorned with busts of Diana, and these have been transported to the British Museum. The road under this arch was entirely laid open as a voluntary work by the sailors of the government expedition to this country in 1844. The line of road has been traced leading directly towards the ancient theatre. Beside the Roman arch, to the E., are the remains of an earlier gateway, bearing traces of interesting Greek inscriptions, with a massive polygonal wall. Above the arch, immediately N., rises a cliff, with a square basement of rough bold stones, which formed the base of the Ionic monument now restored and arranged by Sir Charles Fellows in the British Museum. The various parts that had fallen from it on all sides were collected by his care and transported to England. This monument, from its lofty position over the plain, must have commanded the admiration of every approaching traveller.

The arch road leads to the theatre, placed exactly between the W. end of the great rocky heights and a square lower hill, which seems to have been the acropolis. The theatre has its back set into the acropolis rock, and faces N. It proscenium has disappeared, but the seats remain very perfect, and some separate stone chairs also remain built into the wall at the back, which seems at a later period to have been raised for fortification. N. of where the proscenium was 2 monuments claim attention: one a large square Lycian monument, imitating wooden construction and solid, but mounted on a series of steps formed by stones of a very small comparative size – no inscription; the other a stele broken into 2, and covered closely on 4 slides with Lycian characters, one side of which includes a Greek quotation, commencing with a line from Simonides. The W. side of the theatre has been left imperfect. The curve of the seats was broken at the side to leave undisturbed 2 interesting tombs close upon them; the more northerly of the 2 is the famous Harpy Tomb, consisting of a large square base, 16 ft. high, of the stone of the country (like the Apennine limestone), which supported the Parian marble frieze representing the harpies carrying off the daughters of King Pandarus. These sculptures are now in the British Museum; but the massive lid, similar to that of the great stele to the E. of the main heights, still remains supported by a mass of sticks and stones, preserving at least the original height of the monument. The entire mass has been turned on its base by the action of an earthquake, and when first found some of the sculptures had fallen down. The other monument is an arch-topped solid sarcophagus, supported on a large square pedestal composed only of 4 slabs of stone. Beyond these monuments W. is the brink of a cliff overhanging the river; and a beautiful view of dense vegetation may be seen from this spot, looking up the stream to the snowy heights of Taurus and the top of Pinara rock far up on the I. hand. The top of the Acropolis is flat fields, and the side towards the plain, S., is still supported by masonry of various epochs. From this wall were procured some of the finest early Lycian sculptures now in the British Museum, namely, the chariot frieze, sphinxes, and wild animals, many of which had been built with their faces into the wall. In the E. side of the Acropolis a Roman house and flues were discovered, with a rich mosaic, in various colours, of Leda and the swan. Some of the polygonal walls supporting this side are remarkably beautiful in construction. Across the river are remains of an old Turkish fort, and a little lower, on the same side, a rock-tomb may be seen sunk in the river. The fig and wild pomegranate are very abundant in the plain, and a magnificent oriental plane overhangs the river and shelters a rough wooden gallery for smoking erected near the lowly mosque. There are few houses in the village of Koonik itself; the best are near the Vespasian arch, among the ruins of the ancient city.

From Xanthus the road crosses the river at a ford 1½m. below the ancient city; then passes through one of the most picturesque valleys of Asia Minor.

Demelheer, 15 m.

The road passes to Cousk, 8 m., where the governor of the district resides; his house and establishment composing the whole village.

Doover, about 16 m. from Demelheer. Hence the road gradually rises from the valley to the ancient city of

Tlos, 8 m. This place has been called in the maps Pinara; but the mistake is proved by inscriptions found here. The remains are very extensive, and consist chiefly of massive buildings, fit only for palaces. Their design seems to be Roman. The original city must have been destroyed in very early times, and the finely-wrought fragments of it are seen built into the strong walls of the city constructed on its ruins. The theatre of the ancient city was large, and very elaborately finished. The seats are of finely-wrought marble, with cornices supported by lions’ paws. There are ruins of several large buildings with columns, which are probably of the date of the later town. A perfect honeycomb is formed in the sides of the Acropolis by the tombs excavated out of the rock in the form of temples. A large rock-tomb with a portico is ornamented with a bas-relief of Bellerophon on Pegasus.

Return to Doover.

The road winds through the range of the Cragus, and the country assumes a forest character.

Macry, 22 m., 7 h., the ancient Telmessus. A small port, chiefly inhabited by Greeks. The theatre is in tolerable preservation; it is very large, and of plain architecture. A number of caves, partly built and partly cut in the rock above the coast, appear to have been dungeons or guard-rooms to a fortified town. The tombs are the chief objects of interest, and are of various kinds and dates. They are in most cases approached by steps, and the columns of the portico stand out 6 ft. in front of the cella. The interiors vary but little, and are about 9 by 12 ft. by 6 ft. in height, and in three are the benches on which the urns and coffins stood.

The route from Macry is first over plains, and then over a beautiful series of woody mountains, one of the most picturesque routes in Asia Minor.

Dollomon, 40 m.

Leaving Dollomon, we cross a very large, and then a small river, and ascend a high mountain, and look down upon a splendid lake or bay connected with the sea by a neck 12 m. in length.

Koogez, 25 m. N. W. Here, as well as at Dollomon, the governor’s house or establishment forms the whole village; it is now half in ruins. The father of the present governor was a Dere Bey of great power and importance, and 10 ships of war under his command floated in the lake. Since the destruction of the Janissaries, the independent families of the Dere Beys have been gradually exterminated, and the power of this family is now extinguished. The country continues richly wooded.

Hoola, 40 m.; a village lying in the mountains.

Moola, 12 m.; a town of considerable size, and situated still higher in the mountains.

Acrui-köi (or stable village), 24 m.; a post village. The valley is varied by hill and dale, and has its mountains, rivers and meadows.

Esky-hissar (Stratonicæa), 8 m. The ancient city of Stratonicæa, one of the chief inland cities of Caria, extended over a considerable space, and must have been formed of very large buildings. One immense cella of a temple stands in the centre of the town, built of the large stones used by the early Greeks. Its walls are covered with inscriptions. Besides this are the remains of 5 or 6 other temples, and a theatre on the side of the hill. They all appear to have been of white marble. Many parts of columns stand in their original positions, as well as 2 or 3 fine arches and doorways.

The road hence to Melassa is varied by many small hills, whence a steep descent leads to a plain, at the extremity of which stands

Melassa (Mylasa), 24 m. Every house, wall, or fence here is formed of the stones of the old town, of which some walls, a beautiful Corinthian arched gateway. and a single fluted column, still remain standing. The great temple of Zeus Carius is thought to have been on the Acropolis. In one house in the town a beautiful figure of a child, 18 in. long, with one arm over the breast, is built into a wall. Melassa is a place of considerable importance.

8 m. after leaving Melassa, near the village of Takly, are ruins supposed to be those of Labranda. The only conspicuous building is a beautiful Corinthian temple, standing in a recess in the hills. There are 12 fluted columns, and 4 not fluted, but apparently prepared for this ornamental finish. Other columns, evidently belonging to the same temple, and lying on the ground, are reeded. It appears probable that the temple was not completed. On a small hill to the N. W. are foundations of other buildings.

Half an hour farther is the picturesque village of Kizzlejik.

Buffy, 24 m. from Melassa, a small village among richly wooded hills. A series of woody hills extend along the side of a lake to Pallattia. The lake is connected with the Mæander by a river 2 m. long, celebrated for fish.

Pallattia, 20 m., identified by some with the ancient Miletus, but by others with Myus, a very inferior city. Forbiger, who is of the latter opinion, thinks that the remains of Miletus are buried in the lake formed by the R. Menderch, at the foot of M. Latmus. Miletus stood upon the S. headland of the bay (Sinus Latmicus) opposite the mouth of the Mæander. The situation of Pallattia is unhealthy, and the village consists of but a few huts. The remains consist of an enormous theatre, the traces of an aqueduct, and some walls. There are also the ruins of a Christian church, formed out of a Greek temple.

Sansoon, 1 day, is a Greek village, prettily situated upon the rocky slopes of the mountain. Within a mile of Sansoon, towards the sea, are the ruins of Priene on a bold and precipitous rock; they consist of walls, covering an extensive slope of the hill, out of which, as if built by art spring perpendicularly the rocks on which the Acropolis was built. Priene was originally on the sea-shore and had two harbours; but the change in the coast by the alluvial deposits of the Mæander left it some distance inland.

From Sansoon the road lies up a very steep tract; from the summit of this range, of which Trogyllium forms the termination, the view extends on one side to the mountains forming the Dorian gulf; and on the other to those of Chios and Smyrna. The road descends to

Chauly (probably Neapolis), 15 m.

Scala Nuova, 1 day.

Ephesus, 3 h.
Aidin, or Ghienzel Hissar (Tralles), 12 h., 50m.
Gheyra, 14½ h.
Laodicea, 13 h.
Hierapolis, 1½ h.

Aineh Ghieul, 50 m. The soil of the valley is poor; but crops of barley are obtained by irrigation.

Philadelphia, 16 m. — See Rte. 30.

Sardis, 9 h., 36 m. — See Rte. 30. The road continues along the valley to

Cassaba, 28 m., on the direct caravan route from the interior of the country to Smyrna. From Casaba to Smyrna is a ride of 48 m. through a beautiful and picturesque country, which brings the traveller to

Smyrna. — See Rte. 28.