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No. Title
28Marseilles, Athens or Constantinople to Smyrna.
29Smyrna to the Troad and the Hellespont, by the Thyatira, Pergamos, and Assos - Tour of the Troad.
30Tour of the Seven Churches: – Smyrna to Ephesus, Laodicea, Philadelphia, Sardis, Thyatira, and Pergamos.
31Smyrna to Constantinople, by Sardis and Brousa.
32The Dardanelles to Constantinople, by Brousa, Isnik and Ismid.
33Constantinople to Erzeroom and Van, by Amasia and Tokat.
34Constantinople to Kastamouni, by Isnikmid.
35Constantinople to Busrah, by Samsoon, Diarbekir, Moussul and Bagdad.
36Tokat to Trebizond.
37Trebizond to Erzeroom, by Batoom and Kars.
38Erzeroom to Kaisariyeh, by Erzingen, Diarbekir and Sivas.
39Kaisariyeh to Tokat, by Yuzgat.
40Kaisariyeh to Karaman.
41Karaman to Smyrna, by Beyshehr.
42Skutari to Konia, Tarsus and Baias.
43Constantinople, by Afyun Karahissar and Aidinjik, to Konia and Kaisariyeh.
44Kaisariyeh to Tarsus.
45Konia to Gulnar on the coast.
46Cyprus.
47Cyprus to Aleya.
48Aleya, by Kutaya, to Konia.
49Shugshut to Side.
50Adalia to Smyrna, through Lycia and Caria, by Ephesus, Laodicea, and Sardis.
51Brousa to Smyrna, by Suleimanli and Sardis.
52Brousa to Angora.
53Trebizond to Tripolis and Kerasunt.
54Constantinople to Trebizond by Sea - Sinope - Samsoon.
55Sinope to Amasia, by Niksar, Gumenek, and Tokat.
56Amasia to Angora and Afyun Kara-hissar.
57Kaisariyeh to Angora.
58Beibazar to Ismid.
59Trebizond to Bayezid.
60Trebizond to Erzeroom and Persia.
61Trebizond to Bagdad, by Erzeroom, Akhlat, Bitlis, and Moussul.
62Bagdad to Damascus — Visit to Palmyra.
In the above map:
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Full text of Route 49 (1854)
Bagdad to Damascus — Visit to Palmyra.
Hours. M.
In-oghi 5
Kutaya 12 40
Tjaden 9 36
(Return to Kutaya.)
Altun Tash 9
Sitshanli 9 36
Sandukli 7
Dombai-ovasi 7
Ketsiburlu 5
Isbarta 1 day
Alasoon 1 day
Boojak 24
Ruins, probably of Selge 10
(Return to Boojak.)
Beermargy 24
A village half way 30
Adalia 30
Perga 16
Bolkas-köi 30
Side 40

The road passes over pleasant hills and dales, and then through a forest to

In-oghi, or Orneonoo (meaning a place of caves), 5 h. It is a large village situated on the edge of the plains under the vast precipices of a mountain of bare rock, excavated naturally into caverns and artificially into sepulchral chambers. Some of those in the upper part of the heights are the abode of eagles, which are seen soaring around them in great numbers. One enormous cavern is shut up in front by a wall with battlements and towers, and seems once to have served as a sort of citadel to the town. Several fragments of columns have been built into the houses, but the chief material used is lava or scoriæ, many of the spongy holes being filled with a crystallized substance, similar to that in the basaltic columns of Staffa. On leaving the town we ascend the mountain, passing a small lake supplied by hot springs from the heights; the ascent continues an hour, and the traveller then looks down on meadows and cultivated lands. The road continues for 15 m. over a table-land.

Kutaya, 40 m. — the ancient Cotyæum, which stood on the Roman road from Dorylæum (Eski-Shehr) to Philadelphia — is a large town with an ancient castle, which stands upon a projecting point of the hill rising above the town. Being the usual residence of the Governor-general, Kutaya may in some measure be considered the capital of the eyalet in which it is situated. The river Thymbrius, which falls into the Sangarius, crosses the plain. From Kutaya to Tjaden the route lies S.S.W., and is in many places wild and overgrown with stunted oak and juniper.

Tjaden, 36 m. Here are the ruins of Azani. The modern village consists of but a few huts. On the left bank of the Rhyndacus, on a slight eminence, stands the acropolis of Azani, crowned with a very highly finished Ionic temple, of which 18 columns, with one side and the end of the cella, are standing. At the foot of the acropolis, which is chiefly raised upon 5 arches similar to the vaults at Nicæa, stand several other columns of a temple; and between this and the river is a single column, 4 similar ones having been removed to Kutaya, and used in the erection of the governor’s house. On a hill to the N. are the colossal foundations of another temple, which, from the scattered fragments, appears to have been of the Corinthian order. N.E. is a hill covered with tombs, and on the side of it a beautiful Greek theatre, of which the seats still exist, has been hollowed out. So many of the materials still remain, that the whole might probably be put together again. On either side of the stadium, the ranges of seats, raised on the stone arches, form an avenue for the view from the theatre. Three bridges across the river, which flowed through the city, and whose banks were lined with masonry, are still standing. Azani is historically unknown.

Return to Kutaya, The road passes over an undulating country; half way are the ruins of a mosque and ancient Greek church. The road crosses the Pursek near Kutaya, and again near

Altun Tash, 9 h.

Sitshanli, 9 h.; a village whose walls are of grey scoria. A hilly and stony road leads to

Sandukli, 7 h. (Rte. 43) The road passes over a fine undulating country, with but little wood, except on the mountains.

Dombai-ovasi, 7 h.; a large village. Not far from hence are the ruins of an ancient city. They are situated near the first sources of the Mæander, now called Su Bashi. The road continues over a series of gentle hills and long valleys, bounded on either side by high mountains.

Ketsiburlu, or Catchiburloo, 5 h. From a rock in the town is a fine view of the Lake of Buldur and its scenery. The road to Isbarta is over a range of limestone hills, variously affected by volcanic heat.

The plain before Isbarta 1 day, is beautifully covered with walnut and plane trees.

Isbarta, 1 day, is better built than most of the towns in this part of Asia Minor. Many of the houses have large gardens, and streams of water run through most of the streets. Few traces of antiquity are to be found here.

The road now lies along the bed of a torrent; the rocks are limestone or marble, interspersed with igneous rocks. Jagged points of marble rocks rise from these hills, each of which forms a nucleus of the drifting sand. This sand is tufa, a volcanic production, the dust of the pumice-stone.

Alasoon, 1 day.

Situated in a valley, 3 m. N.W. from Alasoon up the mountain, are the remains of Sagalassus, called by the Turk Boodroom. There are here extensive remains of a superb city, which lay, as its ruins still show, in the form of an amphitheatre. on the side of a hill. The remains comprise 7 or 8 temples and 3 other buildings, ornamented with cornices and columns, with rows of pedestals on either side. It is probable that these buildings may have been Agoras. On the side of the hill is a most beautiful and perfect theatre. The seats and the greatest part of the proscenium remain; the walls of the front have partly fallen, but the cornices and statuary are but little broken. The passage round the arched lobby is almost perfect. The greater part of the city is ancient Greek, with few vestiges of Roman or Christian character. A picturesque church of the earliest Byzantine age stands near the western extremity of the terrace, which overlooks the city. The modern Alasoon seems to have taken its name from the ancient city.

From Alasoon the road passes over a hill into picturesque valleys.

Boojak, 24 m.

10 m. N.E. of Boojak are the ruins probably of Selge. They stand upon a promontory, formed by the abrupt termination of a ridge of mountains of white marble, in a deep rich valley, in which are several villages. This promontory is only accessible on the one side, and on this elevated spot stood one of the finest cities in the world. The ruins are scattered over 3 m. — temples, theatres, and other buildings vying with each other in splendour. The material has suffered much from exposure to the elements. The general style of the temples is Corinthian; and the sculptured cornices appear to be of the same date as the Ægina marbles. Part of the walls are Cyclopean. To the N. of these ruins is the mountain called Dourraz; S.S.W. is Castledar; and N.W. is Isbarta.

The road from Boojak returns to the other end of the valley, and passes S. through an opening of the mountains.

Beermargy, 24 m. Hence to Adalia is 2 days’ journey. On this route there are vestiges of Cyclopean walls, and many Corinthian columns scattered about, together with an ancient sarcophagus, a colossal recumbent lion without a head, and seats supported by the claws of lions, all marking the vicinity of some ancient city.

The village mentioned in the route, 30 m. The country is at first bare and rocky, and afterwards the vegetation becomes varied.

Adalia, 30 m., is a pleasant town, surrounded by a wood of orange, lemon, fig, vine, and mulberry trees. The town stands on a cliff, rising 60 or 80 ft. above the sea, which has no beach, but breaks against the rocks. Adalia contains numerous fragments of ancient buildings, columns, inscriptions, and statues. In front of the town, the bay is bounded by a continued chain of mountains, extremely beautiful, having something of the same effect, though superior to those of Carrara, from the Spezia road. Leaving Adalia, the road passes by the supposed site of Laara, 8 m. distant, where an imperfect inscription is seen.

Perga, 16 m. from Adalia, the capital, under the later Roman empire, of Pamphylia Secunda. The extreme beauty of the situation of the ancient town strikes the traveller. It lay between 2 hills, watered by the Cestrus, and backed by the Taurus mountains. A few ruins of arches and tombs lead to a splendid theatre, the width of which is 330 ft. The seats for the most part remain. The stadium, now used as a place for nursing camels, is perfect, with seats along each side. An enormous ruin of a palace of great extent forms a conspicuous feature. The scenery is now beautiful; the road crosses the Aksoo (the Cestrus), and proceeds 10 m. to an ancient city, probably Isionda. Many of the walls are Cyclopean, and all the workmanship is Greek. Here is an instance of the skill of the Greeks in making nature subservient to art. A long line of wall, partly fallen, is seen on approaching the city, giving the appearance of strong fortifications. On entering, it is found to be the support of a range of seats forming one side of a stadium, the opposite seats being cut in the rock which rises from this theatre. There are the remains of many towers and buildings, which may have been palaces or temples. The summit of the hill is walled.

Bolkasköi, 30 m. On the hill above the village are some extensive ruins, extending over the crown, and partially down the sides of the hill. They are of mixed Roman and Greek architecture. A kind of stadium forms a leading feature, having a screen or wall at the end, ornamented in front with a projecting marble cornice, a colonnade with a balcony above, and niches, the plaster of which still retains its colouring of light blue. Very few of the columns are standing. On the E. of the hill is a theatre in an excellent state of preservation. Over each of the entrances are long inscriptions. In the lobby are brackets, with inscriptions; but the statues which stood there are removed. The proscenium is richly ornamented with niches and a portico, in white marble. The whole of the seats and steps, the floor of the area, and the door sideways, are perfect. The other buildings in the city are in a similar style. This town may probably have been Pendelissus.

Leaving Bolkasköi, 2 towers and many scattered columns, in the pure Greek taste, are found in a wood on a rocky hill. They probably mark the site of Syllium, a strongly-fortified town. The road passes through Legelahköi to

Side, or Esky Adalia.

In the ruins of Side the Greek style is hardly to be traced. The walls are of a late period in Roman history, and few columns or traces of temples remain. The theatre has been fine, but is now in ruin, and the whole of the area filled with trees. There is no village here.