1. Historical Sketch - 2. Sporting -
3. Antiquities - 4. Products - 5.
Climate – 6. Tour of the Island.

1. Historical Sketch.

Cyprus is the most eastern island of the Mediterranean, and lies off the coast of Syria. It is 145 m. in length; its extreme breadth is 55 m., and its minimum breadth 27. It has hitherto been but little visited by travellers owing to the erroneous statements regarding it (particularly as to the insalubrity of its climate), which are so alarming as to deter English tourists. This reputation is in no way borne out by facts, as there is no reason why travellers should not visit this island with as great impunity as any other part of the Levant. It cannot be denied that fevers exist during the warm months, but they are not of a dangerous nature, and seldom or never prove fatal; they are attributable to sleeping exposed to the night dews, and to the use of improper nourishment, such as cucumbers, water-melons, and other raw fruits, which do not afford the necessary support to the system, to enable it to resist the excessive heats. This opinion is confirmed by the fact that these fevers rarely attack Europeans, or the opulent class of the inhabitants, who are more careful in their diet.

Cyprus is stated, by heathen mythologists, to have been the birthplace and favourite abode of Venus, who was believed to have sprung from the foam of the sea (Αφροδιτη) off Paphos. In the route which we shall trace for travellers, the places formerly dedicated to her worship will be briefly noticed. A fair, called κατακλυςμός (deluge), is annually held at Larnaca, 50 days after the Greek Easter, which, there is every reason to believe, derives its origin from the custom mentioned by Herodotus (i. 199) and other Greek authors. Tradition states it to be the anniversary of the birth of Venus; and the inhabitants still flock from all parts of the island to attend it. No Cyprian would on that day dispense with going on the water in boats. This festival was in ancient times proverbial for its lascivious rites, in which young women publicly prostituted themselves; and even now peasant girls suppose that their presence at the fair facilitates their marriage, as formerly it was the custom for young men to come from distant parts in order to select wives from among the females attending. The mythical celebrity of this island, as the birthplace and residence of Venus, probably originated from the ancient beauty and voluptuousness of the inhabitants, and its fertility and picturesque scenery; the former associations would, however, hardly occur to a modern traveller, as the general plainness of the Cyprian women at the present day would but little convey the idea of Cyprus being the abode of the goddess of Beauty.

The entire population of Cyprus does not now exceed 100,000 (consisting of 75,000 Greeks, and 25,000 Turks). All the prosperity for which it was of old renowned has vanished under the destructive influence of Ottoman rule; yet not even this can wholly obliterate the traces of what has been, or the indications of what might be, were good government ever to become the lot of the people.

Cyprus was known to the ancients under the various names of Acamantis, Cerastis, Macaria, Ærosa, Amathusia,Paphos, and Salamis. It was called Κνχρος by the Greeks, from the shrub χνχπρος, with which the island formerly abounded; this plant is the khenna of the Levant, used by the Turkish women to dye the nails and hair of a bright orange colour. According to Herodotus, the island was originally colonized by three different nations, Greeks, Libyans, and Phœnicians; who each founded cities on its coasts for the purposes of commerce. It contained 9 principalities, the most celebrated of which were Salamis, Citium, Solium, and Amathus. It was rendered tributary by Amasis, king of Egypt, and, on the overthrow of that kingdom by Cambyses, passed under the dominion of the Persians, who, however, permitted it still to be governed by its native princes. The inhabitants made several attempts to shake off the Persian yoke; but though supported by the Greeks, they always failed, principally owing to the jealousy which existed between the different chieftains. When Alexander formed the siege of Tyre, the Cyprians, of their own accord, offered him their assistance, and afterwards became subject to the Macedonian empire, but continued to retain their own form of government, and other important privileges, till Ptolemy Lagus made the island a province of his kingdom of Egypt.

Cyprus subsequently passed into the hands of the Romans, and, on the dismemberment of their empire, fell to the share of the Eastern emperors. It continued under the dominion of Greek governors, who bore the title of dukes, till A.D. 1191, when Richard Cœur de Lion, to avenge the insults offered to some of the princesses of his family who had been wrecked on the coast on their way to the Holy Land, attacked and devastated the island, put the duke Isaac Comnenus to death, and himself assumed the title of king of Cyprus. Two years afterwards, however, he made it over to Guy de Lusignan,— “a rich compensation,” as Gibbon observes, “for the loss of Jerusalem,” which this prince then ceded to Henry count of Champagne. The island continued to be governed by kings of the Lusignan family, several of whom bore a distinguished part in the wars in Palestine, carried on for the recovery of the Holy Sepulchre from the hands of the Saracens.

The bad government and internal dissensions of the later kings having weakened their power, they became tributary to the sultans of Egypt, while Famagusta was taken possession of by the republic of Genoa. Notwithstanding the repeated efforts made to expel them, the Genoese held it for a space of 90 years, till they lost it in the reign of James the Bastard. This prince seemed, by his great abilities, to promise to restore the ancient glories of the Lusignan kings, but he died after a reign of 7 years, leaving an infant son, who only survived a few months. The government then fell to his widow, Catherine Cornaro, who, being herself a Venetian, took every opportunity of encouraging and patronising her family, and other Venetian nobles, who had settled in the island; and at length, in A.D. 1485, she formally abdicated, and made her kingdom over to the republic of Venice. Nothing of interest occurred during the 80 years that the Venetians remained in possession of Cyprus, till it was taken by the Turks in the reign of Sultan Selim II., A.D. 1571. Its history, since it has been in their hands, is that of most other states under the Ottoman dominion; everything has been gradually suffered to fall to ruin; the population is oppressed and diminished, the soil uncultivated, and all the arts of civilisation neglected. Cyprus rose in insurrection in 1822, when the revolt was quelled with much slaughter.

We have now given a slight outline of the history of Cyprus, and intend to notice any events that have distinguished particular spots, as we trace our route through the island.

2. Sporting.

Cyprus offers a wide and untrodden field to the sportsman, as its hills and valleys swarm with hares, partridges, francolins, bustards, and quails; in the winter woodcocks, snipes, and wild ducks are found in great abundance.

The francolins, in size and shape, resemble our red-legged partridge, but their plumage is much darker and their flesh more white and delicate, approaching in flavour that of the pheasant. The country about Ruklia, Pissouri, and Paphos, and the whole valley of Maratassa, particularly abound in sport, as also the range of hills along the N. of the island. Should the traveller be inclined to seek nobler game, he should explore the wild and uninhabited country about Capes St. Epiphanius and St. Andrew, where he will find mufflons or wild sheep, and wild boars; the former are also found about Maratassa. He should come well provided with powder and shot, bring some good dogs with him (as those found in the island are almost always unbroken), and engage a Chasseur from some neighbouring village to serve him as guide; thus provided he will not fail to meet with excellent sport.

It will also be prudent to follow the custom of the peasants, and wear high boots or high gaiters, to guard against asps, which are occasionally, though rarely, found. The district about Cape St. Epiphanius is called the forest of Acama; it is now quite uninhabited, and numbers of horses, asses, and bullocks, the descendants of animals abandoned by their owners at different periods of war and calamity, run wild over its heights; but still, amidst the variety of trees and shrubs that cover these hills, may be discerned the blackened and withered stumps of vines cultivated in the time of the Venetians, bearing mournful witness to the superiority of European civilization over Turkish indolence and misgovernment.

3. Antiquities.

The antiquities found in Cyprus belong to 3 distinct epochs, viz. Grecian, Roman, and Christian; and although Engel, the German author, treats extensively of those of the Grecian period, there still remains a great field for research. In 1844 Professor Ross discovered many antiquities hitherto unknown; and were systematic excavations made, there is reason to believe that they would be attended with satisfactory results. As to Roman antiquities, those bearing Latin inscriptions are very rare, chiefly consisting of milestones; the most part bear Greek characters, though referring to the epoch of the Roman governors. Little attention has hitherto been paid to the Christian archæology of the time of the Crusaders; but 60 inscriptions have lately been discovered on the tombs of persons celebrated in the history of that period.

If excavations in search of illustrations of the history of the Christian epoch were undertaken, they would be equally interesting in their results as those connected with the Grecian. To ensure success in this undertaking it would be of the greatest importance to obtain a perusal of the numerous archives relative to Cyprus which still exist at Venice, in the hope of ascertaining the position of the ancient ch. of St. Domenic, in which were interred the sovereigns and high dignitaries of the kingdom.

There is a period in the Christian epoch that would be very interesting if inscriptions existed; it is that of the Byzantine dukes, which lasted 9 centuries. Among many fine churches erected at that period is still to be seen the superb one of Machera, but no inscription has yet been discovered therein. It is probable that the monuments of that period in a great part destroyed during the time that the island was held by Richard I. of England.

At the village of Dali (formerly Idalium, where it is supposed pottery-ware was first manufactured), statutes and vases of soft stone are at all times to be found at a trifling cost: some of these are of great beauty and antiquity.

4. Products.

The principal products of Cyprus are wheat, barley, cotton, silk, madder-roots, oil, wine, caroubs, and salt. These form four-fifths of the entire exportation, which is principally to Marseilles, Leghorn, Trieste, and the coast of Syria. There is no direct trade with England, although nearly the entire imports consist of British goods brought from Beyrout, Constantinople, Smyrna, and the Mediterranean ports; but the quantities consumed are too trifling to give rise to a direct trade.

The greatest drawbacks to productions are the want of water, most of the streams becoming dry in summer, and the awful ravages of the locusts, which, one year with another, consume one-half of the crops. Both these defects would be of easy remedy under a more paternal government.

5. Climate.

The climate of Cyprus varies in different parts. The northern region is the most hilly and wooded, and the least fertile; the heat in that district is tempered by the winds from the Karamanian Mountains, which preserve the frozen snow in the highest spots during the greater part of the year. The cold is very severe in winter. In the plains in the southern districts of Cyprus the heat of the sun is excessive, but it is moderated by the sea-breezes. Rain is very rare here in summer, and verdure is banished by the long droughts. The richest as well as the most agreeable parts of the island are in the vicinity of Cerinea and Paphos (Baffo).

On the whole, Cyprus will amply repay a visit; a tour of a fortnight or three weeks will show the traveller what is most interesting. The best authorities on this island are the works of the Germans Engel and Ross. The Editor has also derived great assistance from a report obligingly communicated by Mr. Niven Kerr, formerly English Consul in Cyprus.

The traveller in Asia Minor may sail from Gulnar (or Celendria) to Cyprus, in which case he will probably land at Cerinea, on the N. side of the island, which he will have to cross in his way to Larnaca, on the S. coast, the residence of the foreign consuls. But most travellers will visit Cyprus on their way to or from Syria, in which case they will be landed by the steamer at Larnaca.

Should the traveller arrive at Larnaca by either the British or Austrian steamers (the former of which are infinitely to be preferred), which ply between Constantinople, Smyrna, Rhodes, Cyprus, and Beyrout, each once a month, he will be admitted to free pratique, provided he comes from Smyrna; but should he arrive from Beyrout, he will be subjected to several days’ quarantine in a new lazaretto, which offers every convenience, and is considered one of the best in the Ottoman empire; should he have previously travelled in Asia Minor, and cross from Celendria or from Tarsus to Cyprus, he will also be in free pratique. The passage from Celendria to Cecinea is about 60 m., and is generally performed in 7 or 8 hours.

LARNACA, the chief seaport of the island, is about ¼m. distant from the sea; but the consuls and most of the European inhabitants reside at a suburb on the sea-shore, called by the Greeks Αλιχαι, or the Salt-pits, and by the Italians the Marina, which is the chief depôt of the commerce of the whole island. The Marina has a small and insignificant fortress built by the Turks in 1625, 2 mosques, and a bazar well stocked with manufactures, colonial wares, &c. The Greek Church of St. Lazarus is worth visiting; the priests pretend that it is the burial-place of that saint, who, after he had been raised from the dead, fled, for fear of the Jews, to Cyprus : he became Bishop of Citium, and subsequently died in the same town. The tomb, however, is now empty, for the body is said to have been conveyed to Venice. The English burial-ground, attached to that of this church, is interesting, as it contains some ancient tombs of our countrymen, some of the dates of which are as far back as the year 1685.

Larnaca was a place of some importance before the occupation of the island by the Turks in 1570; it is the residence of the Bishop of Citium, and contains three Greek churches and a mosque; but by far the finest building of the town is a Roman Catholic church, which was completed only about 1848 : the convent attached thereto is inhabited by Franciscan monks. Larnaca is no doubt situated in the worst part of Cyprus; the country around is arid and without verdure, and this seaport must have been selected by the Lusignans solely owing to the safe anchorage of its roads compared with that of the others in the island. There can be little doubt that it is built on the site of the ancient Citium, though some assert that this town existed where the village of Citti now stands; but this is an evident error, as, on making excavations in the vicinity of Larnaca, ancient foundations are found in all directions. Citium was the birthplace of Zeno, the founder of the Stoic sect of philosophy; and here it was that Cimon, the Athenian general, died, B.C. 449. This town is by some supposed to be the Chittim of Scripture, mentioned in Numbers xxiv. 24; Isaiah xxiii. 1, 12; Jeremiah ii.10; Ezekiel xxvii. 6; Daniel xi. 30.

About an hour's ride from Larnaca, situated on the borders of the large salt lake, on the road to Citti, is a mosque, in which the Turks suppose to be interred the body of the wet-nurse of their prophet. The Sheikh receives travellers with great affability, and exhibits without difficulty the sacred relics and other contents of the mosque, which was reconstructed in 1761, and ranks, in the veneration of the Turks, next to of those of Mecca and Medina.

6. TOUR OF CYPRUS, STARTING FROM LARNACA.

Larnaca to

	Hours
Mount Santa Croce	5
Moni	5
LIMASOL	4
Episcopi	2½
Pissouri	4
Kuklia	3
PAPHOS	3
Chysoroghiatisa	5
Mount Troodos (Olympus)	6
Cicco	4
Lefka	3
Morpho	4
Acheropiti	7
Saint Hilarion	3
Cerinea	1½
Saint Chrysostom (viâ Delapais and Buffavento)	4
NICOSIA	2
Citrea	2
Saint Elias	9
Cantara	2
Saint Barnabas	5
Famagusta	2
LARNACA	8

The mode of travelling in Cyprus is on mules, which are very good, and cost from 6 to 8 piastres per day. Good accommodation is nearly always to be found in the Greek convents, and the peasants are generally very hospitable, and satisfied with a trifling remuneration. Fowls, eggs, honey, bread, cheese, and wine are always procurable; and should a traveller be provided with a servant who knows how to cook, he may fare with tolerable comfort every day. As in some of the villages, the visit of a European is a rare occurrence, it would be well to obtain, through the British Consul, a buyurdi (or letter of recommendation), and a cawass from the governor, not from the existence of any danger—as a person might travel through the entire island unarmed—but to ensure the requisite attention and politeness from the uncivilized portion of the population.

The traveller, on undertaking his journey, would do well to halt the first night at St. Barnabas — a new Greek convent at the foot of Mount Santa Croce (in Greek Σλαυςξς βουνξς), and ascend the mountain at sunrise. The view thence is most extensive and magnificent; even the peaks of Lebanon can be descried in clear weather. On the summit is a Greek convent built by St. Helena on her return from Jerusalem. In continuing the journey, should the ride from Santa Croce direct to Limasol be found too long, the night might be passed at the village of Moni.

About 4 m. previous to arriving at Limasol are the ruins of Amathus, where, in ancient times, was a temple dedicated to Venus and Adonis. It was formerly the seat of government of one of the 9 kings of the island. Ovid states (Met. x.) that coppermines existed in this neighbourhood; they are now unknown. Richard Cœur de Lion landed here on his way to the Holy Land, and entirely destroyed the town, and, making incursions into the interior, devastated all that came in his way.

Limasol, 4 h., where the Turks, on taking the island in 1571, first landed, is now a neat clean town, whose principal trade is the shipment of wines and raki, made in its vicinity, to Egypt and the isles of the Archipelago. Large quantities of caroubs, which grow in the neighbouring forests, are shipped to Russia and Italy. The inhabitants of Limasol are mostly wealthy and extremely hospitable.

On continuing to the westward, the next place worthy of note is Colossi, where there is a Tower built by the Templars, and afterwards ceded to the knights of Rhodes, who gave it this name in memory of the Colossus. The summit of this tower commands a very fine view; the interior has some very handsome Gothic apartments, with curious fireplaces; and on the exterior are the arms of the Templars and of the knights of St. John. It now serves as a granary. In this neighbourhood the best Commanderia wine—so called from the Commandery of the knights, but more generally known as Cyprus wine—is produced. It more nearly approaches to Malmsey Madeira in taste than to any other kind of wine. Large shipments are annually made to Trieste and Venice: it does not appear to suit the English taste, as few British travellers purchase it, and none is sent to England.

Episcopi, 2½ h. (the ancient Curium, one of the 9 kingdoms), is a very pretty village, where it would be well to pass the night. Owing to the abundance of water in the neighbourhood, trees of all sorts flourish well; and this advantage, added to its picturesque situation, renders it a delightful resort. Leaving Episcopi, and traversing a most beautiful country, the air being scented with flowers and aromatic herbs, we reach

Pissouri, 4 h. situated on the summit of a lofty hill, commanding a fine view of the surrounding country. On the way, a little to the rt. of our route, is the Turkish village of Ardimmon, founded by Ptolemy Philadelphus in honour of his sister Arsinoë, but it is not worth visiting. The next place arrived at is

Kuklia, 3 h. the ancient Cythera, the favourite abode of Venus: the only object now worthy of note is a large square castle fast falling to ruins, near to which are some subterranean grottoes which should be visited. Traversing the extensive plains of Kuklia, we arrive at Jeroschipos, where is the traditional bath and garden of Venus.

Paphos, 3 h. No traces are to be found at Baffo (i.e. Paphos) that could be positively asserted to be those of the Temple of Venus. It is supposed to have been destroyed by an earthquake. Some fine granite columns still exist, and the whole neighbourhood gives evident proofs of here having been the site of a large ancient town. Here it was that St. Paul made his first convert to Christianity in Sergius Paulus, the Roman proconsul (Acts xiii. 4-13). In the vicinity, numerous tombs are excavated in the rocks, which it is supposed served afterward as places of refuge for the early Christians. Baffo is now a wretched town, inhabited by both Greeks and Turks; the Greek quarter is called Ktema.

We now proceed through a magnificent country to

Chysoroghiatisa, 5 h.: this is the residence of the Bishop of Paphos, and is a large convent, where the Greek monks are very hospitable. The scenery here is very romantic, and, should the traveller be a sportsman, he will find abundance of game. We continue our route through the magnificent valley of Maratassa, the scenery of which is romantic in the extreme, the slopes and summits of the mountains being thickly wooded with oak, fir, cherry, caroub, walnut, and other trees; whilst at their base flows a small clear stream, which the traveller continually crosses and recrosses. It is to be regretted that, owing to the impossibility of transporting it to the sea-side, so much fine timber is now useless. Many trees exist in this valley of sufficient height and circumference to make masts for line-of-battle ships. The traveller should not omit to ascend

Mount Troodos (formerly Olympus), 6 h., from the summit of which — always covered with snow, and 7000 ft. above the sea — a view of almost the entire island is commanded: he will there find some ancient ice houses, in which snow is still preserved for the use of the Turkish governor during the heats. The botanist might make an advantageous study on the Cyprian Olympus.

We now proceed through a splendid country to the rich convent of

Cicco, 4 h., dedicated to the Virgin. No Greek who performs the pilgrimage to the Holy Land is considered a perfect Hadji until he has paid his devotions at this shrine; the number of those who visit the convent is consequently great, and the monks annually derive from them a rich harvest, although they continually plead poverty, fearing that a display of their real wealth might draw down on them the jealousy and persecution of the Turks. Passing Modulla, we arrive at

Lefka, 3 h., where there is nothing remarkable except the general scenery. The land in this district is very rich, and might in other hands be rendered excessively productive. The road lies through a fertile plain to

Morpho, 4 h., a large village inhabited by Greeks and Turks. Continuing through the same plain, we arrive at Lapitho (Lapithus), formerly the residence of one of the 9 kings, and the site of a temple of Venus. It is still one of the largest and most productive villages of the island, having an abundant supply of water, the source of which is worth visiting, as the rock out of which it flows has been excavated, and found to contain 5 small chambers. Instead of sleeping at Lapitho, it would be preferable to proceed to

The convent of Acheropili, a mile distant, 7 h. from Morpho, romantically situated on a rock overhanging the sea, and in the vicinity of which are numerous interesting ruins, the principal being those of a large church with handsome mosaic pavement.

We now proceed through the plain to Cerinea, the ancient Cerynea. On the rt. of the road, on the top of the hills, is the castle of Dieu d'Amour, also called Saint Hilarion, which should be visited, as it commands a fine view of the surrounding country. Cerinea has a small port, the usual landing-place from Asia Minor, and a large, strong, square castle of great antiquity, but enlarged by the Lusignans. From Cerinea the traveller should not omit to visit the splendid Gothic ruin of Delapais, built by Hugh lll., and destroyed by the Turks after the capture of the castle of Cerinea. The view from this magnificent ruin is sublime; the coast of Asia Minor is distinctly visible, and the coast of Cyprus, at the foot of the mountain-ridge on which it stands, can scarcely be surpassed elsewhere. On the highest summit of the mountain-range, above Delapais, stands the ruined castle of Bufarento — so called from its lofty position, which exposes it to the wind on all sides. It played an important part in the history of Cyprus, and was considered almost impregnable; it was destroyed by the Venetians at the same time as Dieu d'Amour, and nothing now remains of it but a few tottering walls and some reservoirs for water. But though the ruins themselves are insignificant, the splendid view enjoyed from them will amply repay the ascent, as it comprises the whole northern coast of Cyprus, the opposite shores of Asia Minor, and, turning towards the S., the town of Nicosia, and great part of the plain of Messaria. Descending the mountains on the S. side, we reach the Greek convent of St. Chrysostom, where it will be advisable to pass the night.

NICOSIA, in Greek Leucosia, the capital of Cyprus, is scarcely 2 h. ride from St. Chrysostom: the traveller will meet with a most hospitable reception at the Latin convent. From the time of Constantine the Great the walls were 9 m. in circumference, but when the invasion of the Turks was expected the Venetians reduced them to 3, and erected the present fortifications, leaving 3 gates instead of 8. Though fortified by Savorniani, one of the most famous engineers of the day, the town is far from strong, as it is commanded by the higher ground about it; it, however, offered a most obstinate resistance to the Turks, and was only lost through the folly and ignorance of the governor, Nicolo Dandolo. In reducing the circumference of the fortifications, some splendid temples, palaces, and monuments were destroyed, and among them the church of St. Domenic, in which several of the kings of Cyprus, and among them Hugh IV., were buried. When possessed by the Lusignans, Nicosia was the residence of the kings and an archiepiscopal see; the monasteries were very numerous; and there were about 300 Greek and Latin churches, and many palaces and public edifices.

The siege of Nicosia by the Turks under Mustapha commenced on the 26th July, 1570, and lasted 45 days, when it was taken by storm, and 20,000 of the inhabitants were put to the sword; from that period may be dated the rapid decay of this once celebrated city. Between the gates of Famagusta and Baffo, situated in a pretty garden, is a small mosque, in which is interred the Barractar (or standardbearer) who first planted the Turkish flag on the walls. It is worth visiting, and from the summit of its minaret, the best view of this pretty Oriental town is to be obtained; the variety of shrubs, mulberry and palm trees, interspersed with minarets and ancient Christian churches, now converted into mosques, with the Cerinea range of hills in the background, make this scene worthy the attention of an artist. It is extremely picturesque and beautiful.

The following are the objects most worthy of visiting: — The Cathedral Ch. (now mosque) of St. Sophie; in it were crowned the kings of Cyprus; it is composed of 3 large naves, and is in the best style of Gothic architecture, and in excellent preservation. There are still to be seen the tombs of some of the Lusignans and Venetian families, but the Turks have much disfigured them, as also all other symbols of Christianity. The towers, which formerly existed, have been replaced by 2 lofty minarets, which should be ascended, as a fine view of the town and surrounding country is obtained.

The Ch. of St. Nicholas is very beautiful, though small; it now serves as a corn depôt; and also that of St. Catherine, formerly the ch, of a Nunnery, of which latter no traces exist. The Armenian Ch. should be inspected: it contains the tombs of several knights and other warriors renowned in the Crusades, all of which are well preserved.

The Seraglio, or governor's palace, is of Gothic construction, and has still over its entrance the arms of the Republic of Venice; it was the royal residence in Christian times, but is now in a most dilapidated condition. The public bazars are worthy of inspection. The principal trade of Nicosia is printing British calicoes with Oriental designs, after which they are exported to all parts of the Levant, and serve as window-blinds, sofa-covers, &c. Tanning is also carried on to some extent, and the Greek females manufacture silk with great taste, and in a style unknown in Europe. Nicosia is the residence of the Turkish governor of Cyprus, of the other chief Moslem authorities, and also of the Greek archbishop of the island.

We shall now quit Nicosia and pursue our route to the eastern part of the island. The first spot to be visited is the village of

Citrea, 2 h. (anciently Chytra, and one of the 9 kingdoms), a romantic spot, possessing splendid trees, gardens, and sources of water. We now proceed to

St. Elias, 9 h., where is a Maronite convent, and from thence to

The castle and convent of Cantara, 2 h., which were destroyed by the Venetians at the same period as Buffavento and St. Hilarion.

Taking a southern direction, we arrive at the Greek convent of

St. Barnabas, 5 h., in a grotto adjacent to which was discovered the body of that saint, and by his side the manuscript of the Gospel of St. Matthew, said to be written in the Evangelist's own hand. Owing to this precious discovery, in the time of the Greck emperor Zeno, A.D. 473, peculiar privileges were accorded to the archbishops of Cyprus, who, although they own the supremacy of the patriarch of Constantinople over the Orthodox Greek Church, still are entirely independent of him as regards church discipline; they were also allowed to dress in purple, and to sign in red, like the emperors themselves. The whole of the above privileges are retained to this day, the ch. of Cyprus being what is called autocephalous (αυτοκέφαλος). Near St. Barnabas are the remains of the prison in which St. Catherine is said to have been confined previous to being sent to Alexandria, where she was beheaded.

We next arrive at the fortified town of

FAMAGUSTA, 2 h., in which however no accommodation or provisions are to be procured; the traveller must therefore procure lodging at the large and populous suburb of Varoschia, outside the walls.

Famagusta, called by the Turks Maousa, was one of the 4 cities erected by Ptolemy Philadelphus in honour of his sister Arsinoë, and was originally named after her. After the battle of Actium, Augustus called it “ Fama Augusti,” from which the present name is derived, and not, as the Greeks pretend, from the sand by which it is surrounded (Αμμιχωσθι). Its present fortifications are the work of the Lusignans, Genoese, and Venetians; the walls are still defended principally by the cannon of the latter. The works are in good preservation, and offer a striking contrast to the interior of the town, which is reduced to a confused mass of ruins. There are only 2 gates; one to the S. and another to the port, which is small but safe; as, however, it has never been cleaned out since the Turkish conquest, it is now in a great measure choked up, and can only be entered by small vessels.

The fortifications, both on the land and sea side, are very strong, and would, in European hands, even in the present day, be formidable defences. The town was most valiantly defended by the Venetians under Marco Brigadino, against an overwhelming force commanded by Mustapha Pasha, and only capitulated after a siege of 4 months, when reduced to the utmost extremity, and when all hope of succour from without had been lost (Aug. 1, 1571). The conditions agreed upon were most honourable to the besieged, but, when once put in possession of the town, the treacherous Mustapha put the principal officers to death, and delivered Brigadino up to the most cruel tortures. After he had been made to labour at rebuilding the batteries he had so valiantly defended, he was flayed alive, and his skin stuffed with straw and hung to the yard-arm of a galley. Famagusta formerly contained, it is said, 200 Greek and Latin churches, the principal of which was the Latin Cathedral of St. Nicholas, which, though inferior in size to that of Nicosia, is superior to it in beauty of architecture. Here it was that the Lusignans were crowned kings of Jerusalem, and here James the Bastard and his son were buried; and many interesting monuments, among which is that of the founder, are still to be seen in the interior. Opposite this ch. are some arcades, supported by granite columns and adorned with the arms of the Venetian Republic, and those of the principal Venetian and Genoese families who held the command in this town; behind these arches stand the ruins of the palace of the ancient governors of Famagusta. The ch. of Sta. Croce, and that of St. Peter and St. Paul, which were among the most beautiful of the town, have been converted into mosques, but, like all the others, are almost entirely fallen to ruin. One of these churches, that of St. Peter and St Paul, is a striking example of the former wealth and prosperity of Famagusta, for it was built by one Simon Nostran, a merchant, with profits realized in a single voyage to Syria. The citadel is in a good state of preservation, and now serves as a prison. No one should omit to visit the bomb-proof magazines and cannon - foundries on the N. side of the town, which are well worthy the attention even of a modern engineer.

The ancient Salamis, now called by the Turks Eski Maousa, is an hour’s ride from Famagusta; there is little to render it attractive but the interest attached to its site and its high antiquity: it was said to have been founded after the Trojan war by Teucer, son of Telamon, who named it after his native island. Salamis became the most important town of Cyprus, and its kings, more than once, succeeded in subjecting to themselves the whole island. At a later period it was eclipsed by its neighbour Famagusta, but still continued in Christian times to be the residence of a bishop and was not finally destroyed till the Saracens took it in the reign of Heraclius. No building now remains to convey any idea of the former importance of the town: nothing is to be found but confused heaps of stones, some fragments of granite columns, and a few substructiong. To the N.W. stand a few remains of an aqueduct built on stone arches, the work of the Romans, and which conveyed water from Citrea, a distance of 30 m.; the reservoir which received it is to be distinguished among the ruins. Ariston the historian, Cleobulus the philosopber, and other distinguished personages, were natives of Salamis.

There is nothing remarkable on the road from Famagusta to Larnaca, a journey of 8 h.