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Full text of Route 45 (1854)
Konia to Gulnar on the coast.
Hours.
Tshumra 6
Kassaba 9
Karaman 4
A Khan in the Mountains 8
Moot 11
Sheikh Amur 12
Gulnar 6

The road lies over the plain of Konia, which is considered the largest in Asia Minor.

Tshumra, 6 h., a small village. The road continues over the plain, passing only one village, Alibey Köi. 3 or 4 m. short of Kassaba the road is abreast of the middle of the mountain, Karadagh. It is said to be chiefly inhabited by Greek Christians. The ruins of an ancient city are at the foot of the mountain. 

Kassaba, 9 h., differs from every town we have passed through, in being built of stone instead of sunbaked bricks. It is surrounded with a wall flanked by redans, or angular projections, and has some handsome gates of Saracenic architecture. It has a well-supplied bazar, and seems formerly to have been a Turkish town of more importance than it is at present. Khatun Serai is 4 h. W. of Kassaba in a pleasant situation in the mountains. The road passes over a plain, intersected towards the mountains with low ridges and ravines. 

1 h. from Kassaba is Ilisera, situated upon a rising ground ½ m. from the mountains. Between these mountains and the Karadagh, a kind of strait forms the communication between the plains of Konia and those of Karaman. N.E. are the snowy summits of Argæus, which are about 13,000 ft. above the level of the sea. 

Karaman (Laranda), 4 h.; see Rte. 40. The road enters the hills, where we find rocks excavated into chambers, now inhabited by shepherds. 4 h. from Laranda is a village. During the ascent the road presents some magnificent views of mountain scenery. On the l. is a very lofty peaked summit, one of the highest of the range of Taurus, probably between 6000 and 7000 ft. above the level of the sea. In the lower regions of the mountains we pass through woods, consisting chiefly of oak, ilex, arbutus, lentisk, and junipers of various species. As we ascend we enter the region of pines; and through the latter part of the route not a living creature is to be seen, though the woods abound with deer, wild boars, bears, and wolves. 

A Khan in the Mountains, 8 h., is deserted, and partly in ruins. The road lies over the highest ridge of the mountain; the scenery is beautiful. A khan, half way, where the road begins to descend, seems to stand on the site of a temple. Many fragments of ancient architecture are seen; among the rest, a handsome Corinthian capital lying on the ground. 

Not far beyond is a tall rock, which, partly by its natural form, and partly by the effect of art, represents a high tower. A niche in the tower, part of which forms a coffin, is cut out of the solid rock. The lid of this sarcophagus, which is a separate stone, lies at the foot of the rock; upon it is the figure of a lion seated in the middle, with a boy at either end ; the boy facing the lion has his foot upon the paw of the animal. The sculpture is much defaced, and the heads have been purposely destroyed. We find also many entire sarcophagi with their covers. They have all been opened; in some instances by throwing off the covers, in others by forcing a hole through the sides. The usual ornament is the caput bovis with festoons, but some have on one side a defaced inscription on a tablet; on either side of this are ornaments varying on different sarcophagi. We observed on some a garland on one side of the tablet, and a crescent on the other; some have emblems which seem to refer to the profession of the deceased. These, and all the other monuments of antiquity we meet with on this route, excepting those of Doganlú, are evidently of the time of the Romans. Hence the road descends through woods of oak, beech, &c., with an underwood of arbutus, andrachne, ilex, and lentisk.

Moot, 11 h.; a retired town, governed by a Pasha. The walls of the castle are surmounted by battlements flanked with square towers; in the centre is a circular tower. On one side of the castle is a precipice, the foot of which is washed by a river. “Moot stands on the site of an ancient city of considerable extent and magnificence. No place we have yet passed preserves so many remains of its former importance, and none exhibits so melancholy a contrast of wretchedness in its actual condition. Among the ruined mosques and baths, which attest its former prosperity as a Turkish town under the Karamanian kings, a few hovels made of reeds and mud are sufficient to shelter its present scanty population. Some of the people we saw living under sheds, and in the caverns of the rocks. Among these Turkish ruins and abodes of misery may be traced the plan of the ancient Greek city. Its chief streets and temples, and other public buildings, may be clearly distinguished, and long colonnades and porticoes, with the lower parts of the columns in their original places. Pillars of verd-antique, breccia, and other marbles, lie half buried in the different parts, or support the remains of ruined mosques and houses.”—Leake. The scenery possesses the greatest beauty. Pastures, groves, and streams contrast admirably with the majestic forms and dark forests of the high mountains on either side.

Leaving Moot, there is a fine view of the castle, its precipices, the river, trees, ancient colonnades, and an old Turkish mosque, with the tomb of Karaman Oglú its founder. We pass along the ancient road through the cemetery, where sarcophagi stand in long rows on either side. Beyond the valley of Moot the traveller fords the Kiuk-su (sky-blue river), and subsequently the Ermenek-su, the principal branch of the Calycadnus. The remainder of the route is through the mountains.

Sheikh Amur, 12 h.; a village perched upon a rocky hill in a small, hollow, surrounded by an amphitheatre of woody mountains. The road is through the most beautiful mountain scenery, passing through a woody valley, between high rocks of the most grotesque and varied forms. The prospect opens upon an extensive forest of oaks upon the slope of the mountain, through which we at length arrive at a pass between 2 summits, from whence we behold the sea. The island of Cyprus appears in the horizon. 

Gulnar (Chelendreh), 6 h., is the name applied by the Turks to a harbour and surrounding district, containing only some dispersed cottages, and the remains of the ancient Celenderis, several of the vaults of which are occupied by Turkish families. “The remains of Celenderis are of various dates, but none of them, unless it be some sepulchres excavated in the rock, appear to be older than the early periods of the empire of Rome; and there are some even of a late date in that of Constantinople. The town occupied all the space adjacent to the inner part of the bay, together with the whole of the projecting cape. The best preserved remains of antiquity are a square tower upon the extremity of the cape, and a monument of white marble among the tombs; the latter is formed of 4 open arches, supported upon pilasters of the Corinthian order, of not very finished workmanship; and the whole is surmounted by a pyramid, the apex of which has fallen. There are among the ruins some handsome tesselated pavements."-Leake.