(Cross to Moudania. See Rte. 31.)

From Moudania the road lies S.S.W. to

Abullionte, about 5 h., situated on a small island at the N.E. extremity of a lake of the same name, and connected by a long wooden bridge with a narrow peninsula. The town of Abullionte stands on the site of Apollonia ad Rhyndacum; the ruined walls remain, and the position of the theatre, and the foundations of several small buildings, probably tombs, without the town, may be traced. On one of the small islands near it are the remains of massive Hellenic walls. The road continues on the N. side of the lake to

Ulubad, 4 h., Rte. 31.

Muhalich, 2 h.; a large straggling town of 1500 houses, picturesquely situated on some low hills near the junction of the Rhyndacus and the Macestus.

Aidinjik, 10 h. W. — 3 h. before reaching the town we come in sight of the lake of Milepotamo, now called Manias-Gol. The town is full of ancient fragments brought from the ruins of Cyzicus by the Turks. Hence an excursion may be made to Artaki and Cyzicus, which will occupy about 2 days. 3 h. from Aidinjik, travelling round the W. side of the lake of Milepotamo, we arrive at an interesting settlement of Cossacks, who have been established here ever since the capture of Ismail in 1770, and, preferring the Turkish to the Russian rule, have been protected and encouraged by the Turks. They pay no taxes to the government, choose their own chief, and have a small ch. They live principally on the fish of the lake, and find plenty of pasture for their flocks in the neighbouring, plains and mountains. Their fair Slavonic features contrast strongly with the dark complexion of the Turks; while the attention of the traveller is attracted, by the white embroidered smock-frock of the peasants, to the peculiarity of their appearance.

Meulver köi, 8 h.

Maniyas, 1 h.; a village a little off the high road to the S. There are here abundant traces of an ancient site, and several inscriptions, some of which are built into the walls of a Byzantine fortress, which occupies the site of the ancient Acropolis. Part of this wall is composed of ancient blocks, pedestals, &c., and whole courses in some of the towers consist of columns laid transversely across the walls, whilst others are formed of pedestals. These have been called the ruins of Miletopolis, but ought perhaps rather to be called those of Pæmanenus, afterwards called Phemenio, which name, without the first syllable, resembles the modern one. The position of the Acropolis also corresponds with that of Pæmanenus, as described by Anna Comnena.

The road proceeds over some fine wooded hills to the valley in which the Macestus flows.

Su-sughir-li, 4 h., Rte. 31. We now continue along the banks of the river, through beautiful woodland scenery, to Kaya Kapu, or Tash Kapu (Rock-gate, or pass of the rock), where the road winds along a narrow path cut on the steep side of the rock, overhanging the torrent. The pass was defended by a ruined castle on the height. From the ruins of a massive bridge over the torrent it would appear that the pass was once of considerable importance.

Ildiz, 3 h.-The road lies across a range of high and wooded hills, and once more crosses the Su-sughir-li river before reaching

Kefsut, or Kebsud, 4 h. There are here many inscriptions and remains of antiquity, but none that throw light on the ancient name of the place. The road now ascends the valley of the Macestus, through a hilly country to

Bugaditza, 7 h., situated in a fine plain, with some insignificant remains of a castle of the middle ages near it.

Singerli, 4 h.-Here we again cross the river, and continue up its bed all the way to Simaul. 3 h. from Singerli are some hot springs, called Hijah, a little off the road. They rise in several places out of an igneous rock, a grey porphyritic trachyte. The heat of them is nearly that of boiling water. They have a sulphureous smell, and deposit a white stalagmitic and stalactitic concretion. The united springs form a stream large enough to turn a mill; and about a mile from the sources, near the road, the water is still hot enough to form a hot bath, which is much used by the natives.

Simaul, 18 h. Hence an excursion may be made to the lake which forms the source of the Simaul-su. It is 5 m. N.W. of the town. It is supplied by subaqueous springs, for no river of any consequence flows into it. Near the W. end is a small insulated hill, round which are considerable remains of a wall, too ruined for any one to ascertain its age, and near it, as well as in the neighbouring village of Kilisseh-köi, are many large marble blocks and broken columns, &c. It seems probable that this was the site of the Phrygian Ancyra. From Simaul the road crosses a high range of mountains, the E. prolongation of that of Demirji, 4000 or 5000 ft. above the sea, and continues S. to

Selendi, 12 h., situated on the Aineh-chai, which joins the Hermus 35 m. lower down. Leaving the valley of the Aineh-chai, and crossing the mountains between it and the Hermus, we enter the district of Katakekaumene, and arrive at

Kulah, 8 h. The height of this town above the sea is considerable, perhaps 2250 ft. The height of the volcanic cone is 530 ft. above the town; it is one of 3 craters, corresponding with the 3 pits described by Strabo. 9 h. N.N.W. of Kulah are the remains of Saittæ, a celebrated town of Lydia: They consist of a stadium, nearly perfect, between 2 low hills, but the N. end, which extends into the plain, is quite destroyed. There are numerous tombs and sepulchres on the hills around, and many massive remains of temples and other buildings: large broken columns are scattered about the fields in all directions. The modern name of this town is Sidas Kaleh, probably a corruption of Sitas, the accusative of Sitæ, the name by which it is mentioned in the Synecdemus of Hierocles. The route between Kulah and Medereh köi is over a continuation of the extensive undulating plain between Göbek and Sejikler.

Medereh köi, 18 h. E.S.E. Very near this place the Mæander, after winding through a chain of hills of mica schist and limestone, which separates this plain from the Chal district, enters the S. part of the plain through a rocky gorge 600 or 700 ft. deep. The road proceeds through the Chal district, a rich and well-cultivated oval plain, watered by the Mæander, about 14 m. from N. to S., and 4 or 5 from E. to W., to

Demirji köi, 4½ h., the residence of the governor. The Mæander leaves the plain as it enters it, through a deep ravine. The road crosses the high hills which form the E. boundary of the plain to another larger and more level plain also watered by the Mæander, which extends the whole way to Ishekli. At its N.E. extremity, immediately behind Ishekli, rise the fine springs which at once form a considerable river, probably the ancient Glaucus, which, flowing S.E., soon joins the Mæander.

Ishekli, 9 h. The road again traverses a high mountain range, and, partly descending the bed of a winter-torrent, reaches the plain of Sandukli, the elevation of which above Ishekli is considerable.

Sandukli. 1 day; a small town on one of the principal feeders of the Mendereh. At this town there are no remains of importance; but at the distance of 8 m. S. in the plain are the undoubted remains of an ancient town, consisting of the foundations of houses marking the lines of streets, built of large blocks of stone: also part of the wall of an acropolis, which stands on a low hill, on whose rocky sides a few tombs have been excavated; one of these had a Greek inscription. There are also a few sepulchral monuments in the burial ground of the villagers. From Sandukli the road crosses a succession of mountain-ridges, and passes through several flat alluvial plains to

Afyun Kara-hissar, 1 day. (See Route 56.) Between Afyun Kara-hissar and Bolawadun are the remains of several ruined towns on the hillside to the N. of the plain; but though they contain fragments of marble columns and mutilated inscriptions, it is difficult to say whether they can be assigned to a later period than the Turkish conquests.

Bolawadun, 11 h. For continuation of the route to Karabounar, see Rte. 42.

Karabounar. We here leave the great road from Konia to Eregli. The plain of Konia is remarkable for the appearance of the mirage. In winter, this plain is often so much flooded as to be impassable.

Ak-serai, 16 h., situated in an open and well-cultivated valley, through which a small stream, called the Beyaz-su, flows into the salt lake of Kodj-hissar. Madder is grown in great quantities in this neighbourhood.

About 18 m. from Ak-serai, S.E., at the foot of Hassan Dagh, on the road to Bor, are some interesting ruins. The place is called Viranshehr, or Yuran-shehr (ruined town), and is situated on a rocky platform, just above some fine copious streams, which form a long and deep lake, from whence flows a small river which joins the Beyaz-su. The streets and houses of a great part of the town are still standing; the walls, in some places 20 or 30 ft. high, are composed of rough Cyclopean blocks without cement. The walls of the Acropolis may be distinctly traced, besides some curious vaulted buildings of more regular masonry. The tombs are very numerous, and are in the Hellenic style. There are also the ruins of 3 Byzantine churches, of ancient and rude construction, but of much more recent date than the rest of the town.

Kodj-hissar, 32 m. N.W. by N., 15 h. from Ak Serai. The salt-lake begins about 5 m. W. of Kodj-hissar, and is said to be 30 leagues in circumference. The remains of a causeway, built across a branch of it by Sultan Selim, are nearly hid under an incrustation of salt; and at the spot where the road reaches the shore the bed of the lake consists of a crust of solid salt. The salt, which is a government monopoly, is farmed by Haji Ali Pasha, of Konia, for 26 purses (135l.) a year, who resells it for 36 purses (177l.) The salt is collected at 4 places round the lake. The Turks pay one piastre, not quite 2½ d., for a cartload drawn by 2 oxen. The water of the lake is so salt that no fish can live in it; and if a bird touches the water, his wings become instantly stiff with a thick crust of salt.

From Kodj-hissar to Tatlar is 2 days' journey, occupying about 20 h. The country is hilly and better watered; it is only inhabited by Turcomans, who, though they live in tents like the Kurds and Euruks during the summer, have their fixed winter residences. They are the most numerous and civilised of the nomad tribes of Asia Minor. The Euruks live in tents all the year round, but dwell almost always in the mountains; and when in the vicinity of large towns, act as charcoal-burners, and supply the inhabitants of the towns with that article. The Kurds differ in language and manners from thc 2 last-mentioned tribes. They are more wealthy and independent, and live on the E. flanks of Mount Argæus, and in the plain of Haimaneh, near Angora

Tatlar, 20 h.; a remarkable, well situated village in a deep ravine of white sandy volcanic tufa, the sides of which are covered with fragments of black basalt. In this soft sand many curious caves and modern dwellings are excavated, some of which appear to have been ancient tombs; others are evidently chapels of the earliest Greeks; and some may, perhaps, have served as places of refuge during the persecutions in the earliest ages of Christianity.

Nev-shehr, about 6 h. The road passes through Utch-hissar and Urgub, near both of which places are remarkable conical-pointed hills, varying from 100 to 300 ft. in height, which may be said almost to fill up the valley, so closely are they wedged together. Most of them are excavated as Greek tombs or chapels of the early Byzantine period. From Urgub the road ascends a deep narrow ravine, watered by a small stream, on each side of which, extending high up the hills, are gardens and orchards.

Bektash, 9 h., half-way between Nev-shehr and Cæsarea. This place took its name from the Turkish saint, Hadji Bektash, who was buried here after founding the order of dervishes called after him Bektashis. Leaving the valley, which we have followed from Urgub, the road crosses a high ridge of volcanic sand-hills, capped with basalt, and descends upon Injeh-su, whence it winds round the N.W. foot of Argæus to

Kaisariyeh, 9 h. (See Rte. 38.)