The hours are easily accomplished within the time, though the horses are indifferent.

	Hours.
Yenkoi	10
Karghan	10
Erzingen	12
Kemakh	12
Herhemeh	10
Egin	12
Arab-gir	10
Keban Maden	10
Kharput	10
Arghana Maden	12
Arghana town	3
Diarbekir	12
(Return to Kharput)
Eizoglu	12
Aspusi—Malatiyeh	6
Hakim Khan	14	Post.
Ghurun	15	No post.
Manjelik	9	No horses.
Ulash	9	Post-
Sivas	6	horses.
Saghileh	12
Gemerek	6	Good
Kaisariyeh	12	road.

Erzeroom the road diverges from the high road to Constantinople, and passes over a more elevated tract of country, and then descends into the plain of Terjan, in which the Mamak Khatun unites with the Kara-su or E. Euphrates. This plain is well watered, and contains about 40 villages, chiefly inhabited by Turks.

Yenkoi, 10 h. The buildings in the plain are half under ground, in the usual Armenian style. The climate is milder than at Erzeroom.

Karghan, 10h., 60m from Erzeroom. Between the plains of Terjan and Erzingen a mountain range intervenes, with many strong passes easily defensible; it is inhabited by Kurds, and forms part of the Dujik range. The Kurds here are divided into 2 powerful tribes, one called the Shah Husein, the other the Balabanli; they are represented as rich, pay no contributions to the Sultan and lose no opportunity of levying them on passengers, and of plundering their neighbours. Each tribe can bring from 4000 to 5000 men into the field.

Erzingen, 12 h. A town of 3000 horses, of which 800 are Armenian, and the rest Turkish. It is governed by a Bey, and is a dependency on the eyalet of Erzeroom. The houses here are built above ground, which gives them a more cheerful appearance than in other parts of Armenia. The town is situated at the western end of a rich and beautiful plain, of which the Gujik mountains form the southern boundary. On the N. side of the plain the bases of the mountains are covered with villages, surrounded by extensive gardens, which furnish excellent fruit in great abundance.

We now cross the plain in a S. direction and enter a narrow defile, through which the Kara-su flows. The approach to Kemakh is by a wooden bridge thrown over a deep chasm in the mountain, through which the Kara-su has forced its way; just before entering the chasm the Kara-su is joined by the Keumer. By the latter river wood is brought from the mountains and floated down the Kara-su for the use of Egin and Keban Maden.

Kemakh, 12 h. A singular place. An elevated part of the town is within a wall of very ancient structure, and commanded by mountains rising close behind it. The remainder is situated in gardens ascending from the banks of the river. The town contains 400 Turkish and 30 Armenian houses; the inhabitants live by cultivating the valleys, and by transporting wood to Keban Maden. The governor is one of the remaining Dereh Beys, whose family has held the office for many generations. The road recrosses the bridge and takes a more westerly course than the river and crosses some mountains to 

Herhemeh, 10 h. The traveller returns towards the river, and proceeds by Hassan Ovah to the ferry of Khostieh, where the river is very wide and rapid. In this district the women reap, while armed watch near to prevent the Kurds from carrying off the corn. At some distance farther on the stream again enters a vast rent in the mountains, the precipices on either side rising 1000 or 1500 ft. 

Egin, 12 h., situated in a very deep valley on the rt.bank of the Kara-su. The traveller crosses from the opposite bank by a long wooden bridge. The mountains rise from the banks of the river in steep slopes, terminated by abrupt precipices. The sloping part of the mountains is covered with gardens in terraces, and, the trees being thick, the houses have the appearance of being situated in a forest, the contrast between which and the naked precipices above produces a singular effect. The town contains 2700 houses, of which 2000 are Mohammedan, and the rest Armenian. Wine is made here, and fruit is abundant. The goitre is a frequent disease in this district. Leaving Egin, the road continues on the rt. bank of the river, but diverges from the stream and crosses several steep mountains and deep valleys, after turning W., and crossing a mountain range, a slight descent brings us to

Arab-gir, 10 h., situated on an elevated plateau in the midst of a forest of fruit-trees. It contains 6000 houses, of which 48000 are Mohammedan, and 1200 Armenian. The latter are chiefly engaged in manufacturing cotton goods from English yarn. The manufacture, which has only been introduced of late years, has extended rapidly, and there are now 1000 looms at work. The place is consequently in a thriving condition. Arabgir is 15 caravan days from Aleppo and 12 from Trebizond. To the N., in the district of Divrigi, are iron-mines, and at a place called Zeitun, on the Aleppo road, they are regularly worked. The road now lies over an undulating, uncultivated, barren country: before reaching the Euphrates it falls into the military road constructed by Reshid Mohammed Pasha from Samsoon. The traveller crosses the Euphrates by a ferry; the river here is 120 yards wide, deep, and rapid. 2 h. above this ferry the Kara-su, or Eastern Euphrates, is joined by the Murad-chai, or Western Euphrates. The united streams retain the name of Murad-chai to Bir, where the river finally assumes that of Frat.

Keban Maden, 10 h. The town and mine are situated in a ravine ½ h. from the ferry; it is so narrow as to afford no room for cultivation, as the mountains unite in it at an acute angle. The mountains around exhibit barrenness in its most forbidding aspect. The town, which only owes its existence to the land and silver mine, contains 400 or 500 families, all more or less employed in working it. The greater number are Greeks, who are miners; the Turks are the directors, and the Armenians the artisans. The mine is of argentiferous lead, and would appear to be an unprofitable concern, at least in the hands of the government. The road now passes over a mountainous country to an extensive plain, well cultivated, and studded with villages. A mountain range separates this plain from the adjoining one of Kharput.

Kharput, 10 h., is placed on an eminence at the termination of a range of mountains, but, being commanded by higher ranges, it cannot be considered as a strong military position. It is said to contain about 1720 families. The city overlooks an extensive, beautiful, and productive plain not less than 36 m. long, and from 4 to 6 broad, filled with villages chiefly inhabited by Armenians. The population of the plain is very redundant and prosperous. The productions of the soil are every kind of grain, grapes, wine of a superior quality, oil from seeds, and cotton. The streams in the plain flow E. into Murad-chai. Descending from Kharput we cross the plain obliquely, and ascend a steep mountain, then descend to the lake of Genlik, whose waters have been erroneously stated to be salt. Crossing a tolerably well-cultivated valley, we pass by a Kurd village into a small but beautiful plain, and thence enter a succession of mountain passes. In these barren mountains are the sources of the Tigris.

Arghana Maden, the copper-mine of Arghana, 12 h., furnishes the principal supply of copper to the Turkish government. Works were formerly raised here by Austrian mining officers. Its position is exceedingly picturesque. Around it are collected 270 Greek, 173 Armenian, and 300 Turkish families. It is situated in a rock of serpentine direction, 10 m. from the town of

Arghana, 3 h., under a lofty peak, surmounted by an Armenian convent overlooking the great plain of Diarbekir, covered with masses of basalt. The slope from the town to the plain is covered with gardens, producing every sort of grain, cotton, fruits, and a very superior wine. Arghana contains 600 families. A vast level plain leads to

Diarbekir, 12 h., situated on the rt. bank of the Tigris, with gardens between the town and the river. The traveller, if furnished with letters, will be hospitably received by Hoja Bedosh, a Catholic Armenian, correspondent of Messrs. Hanson, or by Shamaz (deacon) Syhak: there is now, however, an English consul here. Diarbekir is the ancient Amida, a town of considerable antiquity. It was enlarged and strengthened by Constantius, in whose reign it was taken, after a protracted siege, by Sapor king of Persia. The historian Ammianus Marcellinus, who took part in its defence, has given a minute account of the siege. (Amm. Marc. xix. 1, seq.) Though ceded by Jovian to the Persians, Amida again became annexed to the Roman empire, and in the reign of Anastasius, A.D. 502, was once more taken by the Persians, when 80,000 of the inhabitants were put to the sword. On the termination of the war it again passed into the hands of the Romans, and Procopius relates that Justinian repaired its walls and fortifications. There are many Roman remains at Diarbekir; the walls are especially remarkable, and the Saracenie buildings are very curious.

The Konak, or residence of the governor, is a picturesque building with large courtyards. The wall

enclosing the principal mosque is very interesting to the antiquary: it is very massive, consisting of 2 rows of pillars, one over the other; the pillars are of porphyry. This wall, apparently, is that of a Roman temple, or of its enclosure. Over one of the gates there is said to be a Latin inscription, rather too high up to be read, and there is an Arabic inscription round the interior. The fountain in the centre of the court has a cupola over it, supported by a very pretty colonnade.

The massive walls, 5 m. in circumference, and the whole town, are built of black lava, mixed with the ruins of ancient edifices. Close outside the town, approaching from Syria, is a lava stream exposed by quarrying stone, and exhibiting prisms strikingly similar to those of St. Flour in Auvergne.

There is a good military hospital at Diarbekir.

In its prosperity the town contained 40,000 families, and numberless looms were in constant work. It had an active trade with Bagdad in Indian, and with Aleppo in European goods, and was one of the wealthiest cities in Asia. The population is now reduced to 1500 Armenian, 85 Catholic, 70 Greek, 50 Jewish, and 6300 Turkish families. There are now but a few hundred looms half employed. The trade with Bagdad is annihilated, and that with Aleppo reduced to insignificance. A silk-trade, however, is now rising.

[About 30 m. S.E. of Diarbekir lies Mardin — about 10,000 Inhab. — in a most striking position, overlooking the great plains of Mesopotamia. Its streets are a succession of terraces, extending about 2 m. E. and W. Half the population are Moslem Kurds, the other half Christians (Chaldeans, Maronites, and Jacobites). Here is a convent occupied by Franciscan friars of the Propaganda. Observe. The arabesque ornaments on the gates of the citadel are said to surpass those of the Alhambra.]

Return to Kharput.

Eizoglu, 12 h., a district with a ferry, and a Kurd village on either bank.

Aspusi (Malatiyeh), 6 h., 21 m. W. of the Euphrates. Aspusi is 6 m. above Malatiyeh, situated amidst a forest of fruit-trees. The inhabitants of Malatiyeh remove to Aspusi for 7 months, returning to Malatiyeh for the 5 winter months. Aspusi and Malatiyeh may be considered as one town, and contain 3922 families.

Malatiyeh, the ancient Malatia, is a most desolate-looking place; the ancient walls are in ruins, the houses are mean, the bazars mere mud-stalls. Three are 2 well-built mosques, and 2 caravanserais in the Persian style. On a rock near the town are some cuneiform inscriptions similar to those at Van, described in the Rte. 33. The road traverses the plain, and then crosses the Tokhmah-su, by a bridge, to either end of which a causeway on arches is united. This extends across the valley in which the river flows, whose occasional rise it indicates. 7 m. from the Tokhmah-su, we arrive at the Chamurlu-su, which also falls into the Murad-chai. On the plain is a column which marks the half distance between Bagdad and Constantinople. The road passes by Hassan Batrik, and enters a defile in which runs the Chamurlu-su.

Hakim Khan, 14 h., a poor town, where there is a castle and a khan in the Persian style, said to have been built by a doctor, and hence its name. The track now leads over mountains and valleys, and finally, after making the circuit of the Ali Dagh mountains, descends to the Tokhmah-su, which it follows in a northerly direction to

Ghurun, 15 h., situated in a deep narrow valley, whose E. side rises in a precipice; the western is sloping, and cultivated where the ground permits. A stream runs through the valley. The town contains 1770 Inhab., who are engaged in trade with the migratory tribes of Turcomans and Kurds. The traveller now ascends the steep E. side of the valley, and passes over a mountainous tract.

Manjclik, 9 h., a small village, and the only one on the road: it formerly contained 100 families, but is abandoned by all except 15 Armenian families, who are induced to remain by the presence of a very ancient ch., dedicated to St. Thros, which is a place of pilgrimage, and of peculiar sanctity.

Ulash, 9 h., inhabited solely by Armenians. On the road hence to Sivas are 2 large salt-works: the salt is procured from springs. The government is said to derive a considerable revenue from them, and the surrounding country is supplied by them.

Sivas, 6 h., said to be the ancient Sebastopolis, situated on a plain watered by the Kizil Irmak, which is here a large stream, and has 2 broad stone bridges thrown across it within 5 or 6 m. The town covers a large area, butwithin it are many ruins. It contains 5000 Turkish and 1200 Armenian families. Many of the old mosques and khans prove the town to have been once under the Persian dominion. The remains of an ancient mosque or medresseh are amongst the most remarkable Saracenic ruins in existence. They well deserve careful study. The position of Sivas is excellent for a commercial city; the access from the Black Sea is easy, and facilitated by the military road made by Reshid Mohammed Pasha. It is situated in a district abounding with the necessaries of life. The route by Sivas is the best to Bagdad. The bazars are extensive, and the khans numerous. The road from Sivas to Kaisariyeh is over extensive plains separated by low ranges of mountains. The plains are cultivated and well peopled.

Saghileh, 12 h.

Gemerek, 6 h.

Kaisariyeh (the ancient Cæsarea ad Argæum), 12 h., is situated at the foot of the mighty snow-capped Mount Ergish (Argæus), rising to the height of 13,100 ft. above the sea. Close by the town are the ruins of a more ancient Mohammedan city, which was destroyed by an earthquake. The city is surrounded by a dilapidated wall, and has a castle within on the same level as the city. Neither of them could offer resistance to cannon. Many buildings within the town bear evidence of Persian occupation. The base of this remarkable and picturesque volcanic mountain is covered with gardens abounding in fruit of all kinds. The mountain supplies timber for building, fire-wood, and charcoal. The town contains 8000 houses, 5000 Turkish, 2500 Armenian, and 500 Greek. It is the principal commercial mart in the central part of Asia, and its inhabitants are remarkable for enterprise and activity, and are found following their pursuits in the remotest corner of the empire. Of late years the importance of the place has declined, owing to the insecurity of the country caused by the Kurds, and to the increased navigation of the Black Sea, which has drawn the commerce from the direct line overland to Smyrna, Its bazars, however, are most extensive, and are well supplied with foreign goods, chiefly Manchester cottons and Austrian quincaillerie.

To the S. of the town are some slight remains of the ancient city of Cæsarea or Mazaca, the capital of Cappadocia, of which the Stadium is the most conspicuous.

The villages around are large and populous, and the Christian inhabitants display their wealth and luxury in their country residences more than in any other part of Turkey.

The ascent of Mount Argæus is described Rte. 40.