There are 2 routes. 1. The first and shortest is by Gumish Khaneh, mentioned in the preceeding route. The distances are – Trebizond to Gumish Khaneh, 18 Turkish hours; G. Khaneh to Baibourt, 14 h.; Baibourt to Askalla, 12 h.; Askalla to Erzeroom, 9 h.; total 53 h. (See Rte. 60.)

2. The second route is by Kars, and is arranged as follows: –

			Hours.
Batoom, by sea			60
Choruk, by sea			4
Jaghat			5
Didewaghi			7
Akho			7
Kulah			7
Danesvorola			5
Digwir			9
Louramel			5
Ardahau			8
Kars			16
Karahamza			8
Mezingherd			10
Khorassan			4
Hassan Kaleh			8
Erzeroom			6

There are no regular posts on this route, and the distances are stated as paid for; though sometimes bad roads lengthen the time of the journey.

Trebizond, situated on the S. shore of the Black Sea, has been a place of importance since its first foundation by the Greeks. The town is built on a rocky table-land (whence its name from the Greek τραπιζα) sloping somewhat towards the sea; part is surrounded by a castellated and lofty wall. On either side of this walled portion are deep ravines, filled with gardens, and both are traversed by long bridges. The citadel is dilapidated: it overlooks the city, and is commanded by neighbouring heights. The gates are closed at sunset, and the walls are a sufficient defence against an attack of troops unprovided with artillery. It is the seat of government of the Eyalet which takes its name. There are no remains in the city or neighbourhood of a more remote period than the Christian era. Independent of nearly 20 churches still retained for the Greek service, almost all the mosques have been churches. The handsomest is that of Santa Sophia, a mile W. of the city. It is in good preservation externally, and, although it has been converted into a mosque, is seldom used by the Mohammedans. Over one of the principal gates is a long inscription, evidently not in its original place; it refers to a Christian bishop and one of the emperors of Constantinople. Procopius says that Justinian built here a church, an aqueduct, and a castle, whose ditches were hewn in the solid rock. In the porches of 2 small Greek churches Mr. Curzon saw curious, well-preserved frescoes of the 12th century, portraits of Byzantine princes, &c.; and in the courtyard of other Greek ch. is a curious monument to Solomon, king of Georgia, under a stone canopy. The walls and citadel are attributed to the Genoese.

There is no safe port for ships; a small open bay is the summer anchorage, and in winter the Turkish and European ships resort to Platana, a roadstead 7 m. W. of Trebizond. There is a small port for row-galleys below the town. The houses in the town contain generally a ground-floor only, and, each having a garden round it, scarcely a house is visible from the sea. When the trees are in leaf the town has the appearance of a forest.

The city contains from 25,000 to 30,000 Inhab., of whom from 20,000 to 24,000 are Mohammedans. The walled part of the city is inhabited solely by them; the Christian population, the bazars, and khans being without the walls.

From the period of the expulsion of the Genoese, and the capture of Trebizond by the Turks, its commerce dwindled into insignificance; and previous to 1830 was confined to the export of a few products of the country to Constantinople. Trebizond at present centres in itself almost the whole trade of Persia and a large part of Central Asia. The value of the articles imported reached, in 1852, 2,148,260l. sterling, three-fourths of which are in transit for Persia, and a large portion of the goods are of English manufacture, including iron, which has supplanted that of Russia (Ragamoy), white calico, cottons, and cotton-yarn. The exports in the same year reached 647,712l. sterling; silk is by far the most important, forming about half; the rest consists of nuts, saffron, tobacco, copper, wax, galls, beans, leeches, &c. Pretty silver-thread bracelets are made here. The neighbouring mountains abound in rich veins of copper and lead ore; but their mode of working mines prevents the development of this source of national wealth.

Trebizond, besides being the port of Erzeroom, Tabriz, and Teheran, has become the chief entrepot between Central Asia and Europe; and it is not difficult to perceive that, from its geographical position, it must hence-forward maintain this important character. Access to Central Asia from the eastern coast of the Black Sea is precluded by the towery range of the Caucasus, as from Syria it is rendered inconvenient by the desert that fills up the great triangle formed by the Euphrates, the Mediterranean, and Arabia. The interval between these 2 approaches is occupied by the peninsula of Asia Minor, and hence the rise of Smyrna when the navigation of the Black Sea was prohibited, and caravans traversed the length of the country from E. to W. But now that restrictions on Euxine navigation are removed, Trebizond, on the N. and extreme neck of the peninsula, affords such convenient access as to monopolise the intercourse with Europe. Its importance is shared only by Aleppo, which supplies the S. littoral of its own continent.

The principal Sandyak or district in the eyalet of Trebizond is that of Djanik, of which Samsoon is the capital. It extends from Platana to Sinope. The Mutassarif of Djanik has a larger revenue than his superior, the Pasha of Trebizond. The ex-vizier, Reshid Pasha, has a country-seat in a beautiful situation in this neighbourhood. The present Pasha of Trebizond has by no means such a good understanding with him as he had with his predecessor, the late Fuad Pasha. The latter, though Vizier, always called the Pasha of Trebizond his Pasha, and took delight in jesting him. The present Pasha of Trebizond offered him 2000l. for his villa, who in turn offered to sell the privilege to him for 5000 a week after.

The Romans had in Pontus an important military station named Polemonium, which, from the account of the ancients, seems to be in the district of Djanik. Mr. Hamilton could not find any trace of such a city; he, however, saw the ruins of one, named Toozla by the Turks, which stood on the site of the ancient Gazelonitis. The limits of this Roman colony were between the rivers Phanar and Halys. The limits of Djanik, by the first article of the Turkish treaty with Russia of 1829, were the rivers Halys and Phasis.

The traveller returning from Trebizond to Constantinople should not omit to visit Sinope, once a great and famous city, but now a dilapidated town. The ruined walls are very extensive, and there is a fine aqueduct in a good state of preservation. The houses of the Christians are miserable, but the mosques are handsome. The most remarkable building is a large convent on the shore, once occupied by the Knights of St. John, but now by a single Mussulman family. The harbour, though small, is one of the best on the coast, and is enclosed by a mole, which must have been a work of great labour and expense. The view from the citadel is magnificent, but the town presents nothing worth notice except an old Genoese castle. The town stands on the neck of a small peninsula, which is separated from the main by a wall across the isthmus. On this isthmus, where now stands a mosque, formerly stood the temple of Jupiter Serapis. Mr. Hamilton saw many fragments of ancient columns, and other remains of buildings, but nothing perfect except the citadel and aqueduct. The environs of the town are beautiful, and the view from the heights over the sea towards Constantinople is very fine. On the S. side of the town is a large square tower, evidently of Genoese architecture. Trebizond formerly had a trade with Sinope, but this has greatly decreased since the last war. The bays on the coast are the finest in the world for the construction of shipping, but the want of wood is greatly felt. The Greeks of this town are very industrious, and many of them have settled at Trebizond. On the N. side of the peninsula are extensive ruins of ancient baths. Mr. Hamilton was hospitably received by the Governor, a Greek by birth, but now a Mohammedan and a pasha of two tails. The windows look over the harbour and towards the Lazistan mountains. The quarantine charges amount to about 200 piastres, including fees, rent of rooms, and a guardian, who acts as a servant.

From Trebizond the traveller should proceed to Batoom by sea, a journey of about 12 hours, if the wind be favourable. The port of Batoom is the best on the coast, and the only one where large ships can find shelter from all winds. The town is small and poor, and the inhabitants are chiefly engaged in the fishery. The country round is beautiful, but unhealthy. The mountains of Lazistan rise abruptly from the sea to a great height. The climate of Batoom is moist and rainy, and the surrounding country is frequently enveloped in fogs. The inhabitants are much addicted to drinking, and the women have the reputation of being very loose in their morals. The road from Batoom to Tiflis is good, and may be travelled on horseback in three days. There is a constant communication between these two places by means of small coasting vessels. At times a steamer runs to Batoom from Trebizond. The mountains are inhabited by various tribes, the most important of which are the Lazis. They are a robust and well-made people, with fine features and a fair complexion. Their language is peculiar to themselves, but they speak Turkish and some of them Russian. They are nominally Mohammedans, but they are very ignorant of the precepts of their religion, and pay little attention to its rites. They are a brave and warlike people, and have always maintained their independence. They are much addicted to robbery, and the roads in their country are unsafe. The women are very beautiful, and dress in a peculiar and picturesque costume. The men wear a short jacket and trousers, and a cap of sheep's wool. They are armed with a gun, a pistol, and a knife. The Lazis are governed by their own chiefs, who acknowledge the supremacy of the Sultan. They pay him a small tribute, but are exempt from military service. They are very fond of music and dancing, and their songs are melodious and pleasing. They are generally, if not always, circumcised.

Sailing along the coast to the Russian frontier, we pass in succession the districts of Yomurah, Surmenah, Of, Rizah, and Lazistan; all these, with the exception of Of , are called Lazistan, and the people are called Lazes. In Lazistan there are no towns; but there are bazars, consisting of a street of shops, a coffee-house, and a khan or two, at Surmenah, Rizah, Atenah, Khopah, and Batoom. A weekly market is held at these bazars, and the inhabitants live in scattered cottages.

Rizah is an important fertile district, with the most extensive bazar on the coast. It is famous for the manufacture of a linen made of hemp, used in Turkey for shirts.

Between Khopah and Trebizond no places on the coast communicate with the interior by caravans. There are passes practicable in summer from Surmenah, Of, and Rizah.

Khopah is an open roadstead, where goods destined for Atvin, a small manufacturing town on the Choruk, are landed.

Batoom is the only safe port on the coast in winter; it is well sheltered, and capable of containing a great many ships. It is the readiest point of internal communication with Persia, Georgia, and Armenia. It is about 60 hours’ sail from Trebizond. From July to October it is a very unhealthy station. The bazar is situated at the W. side of the bay, close to the sea; it contains about 60 shops, several coffee-houses, khans, and a mosque, all built of wood. A few small houses are built, and gardens cleared, behind the bazar. The eastern side of the bay is healthy, being removed from the marshy ground which occasions the insalubrity of the W. side.

The river Choruk, which falls into the sea a few miles beyond Batoom, is the boundary-line between the eyalets of Trebizond and Erzeroom.

Choruk, about 4 h. by sea from Batoom, is a more extensive bazar than the latter; but there are no dwelling-houses here excepting the Bey’s. It possesses no harbour, and seems to be on the decline.

At Choruk the traveller will commence his journey by land. On the cross roads post-horses are seldom found; but the villages are obliged, and generally quite willing, to furnish them at the rate of 1 Turkish piastre (2d.) per post hour; and the traveller is seldom detained long for want of horses. With moderate despatch, with a small quantity of baggage, and not many attendants, he would find 30L per 100 h. adequate for every expense whatever, including that of the tatar. The peasants, who receive the traveller into their houses, are content to leave their remuneration to his generosity. If he is quartered in the house of a wealthy Armenian, he will find himself well treated, and his entertainers will seldom accept money. In such cases it is customary to present a trifle to the mistress of the house. On leaving Choruk, the road passes over meadows and through a narrow wood, and ascends the valley of Khino by a wild and beautiful mountain gorge.

Jaghat, 5 h. The houses here are not collected together, but are dispersed among the woods. The ascent continues through the same woody and mountainous scenery to

Didewaghi, 7 h., situated immediately under the pass of Kolowah Dagh. The village is more than 4000 ft. above the level of the sea, and contains 18 families. The people are a fine race, and their handsome features show their Georgian mixture. Georgian is the usual language after leaving Batoom, and many of the natives in this district do not understand Turkish. The men here are always armed with a rifle and khammah, or large double-edged knife, and they still have suspended from their girdles a knot of cord, which, though now only ornamental, served formerly to bind any captive Georgian they met on their rambles.

Hence there are 2 passes to the Agirah valley; one by the Perengah Dagh, down the Juwanah valley, and the other by the Kolowah Dagh, down the Akho valley. The former is extremely difficult, and often impracticable. That by the Kolowah Dagh is also very steep. The side of the mountain is covered with forests of immense beech-trees. The upper part has only a few stunted juniper-bushes and spruce-fir growing on it, and the summit is bare. The descent is steep and long.

Akho, 7 h. A pretty valley, containing about 60 families. The road now descends into the Kulah or Agirah valley, through which flows a large river, uniting with the Choruk before it reaches the sea. On reaching the banks of the river we get into the direct road from Batoom. The forests on this side are quite Alpine, consisting principally of small oak, mixed with Scotch and spruce fir.

Kulah, 7 h., the hereditary possession of Ahmed Pasha of Kars, about 60 m. from Batoom, is the principal place in the valley, and contains, with its immediate neighbourhood, about 60 houses, and a bazar with 20 shops. The climate is good. The road continues up the valley, through the village of Raged, where the Agha resides, to

Danesvorola, 5 h. The distance is only 12 m. from Kulah, but the rocky nature of the road retards the traveller’s progress. It is principally inhabited by persons who have quitted the territory ceded to Russia.

We now ascend, through a pine-forest, to the summit of a range abounding with extensive pastures. Hence there is an easy descent into the plain of Poshkow. The country, as well as the natives, now assume a different character from those on the other side of the mountains. The country is open – a succession of plains without wood; the habitations are the underground houses of Armenia; the people talk Turkish, and bear the distinctive features of the Armenian race. The Sandyak of Poshkow was retained by the Russians till the definitive settlement of the frontier; and either on their evacuation, or during their occupation of it, the villages were destroyed, but some of them are now in progress of restoration.

Digwir, 9 h., the residence of the Bey of the Sandyak of Poshkow. The road, after crossing a high mountain, descends to the rich plain of Ardahau, watered by the Kur.

Louramel, 5 h.

Ardahau, 8 h., formerly contained 300 houses, but, being destroyed by the Russians, it now only contains 70 families. The houses are under ground. The fortress was dismantled by the Russians, and the guns taken away; it is, however, commanded by neighbouring heights. The road lies over a high table-land, without a single village for 25 m.; but 3 h. from Kars the country becomes well peopled and highly productive.

Kars, 16 h., was formerly a large town, and might have contained 8000 families, but is now a heap of ruins, containing not more than 1500 to 2000 families. A part of the town is walled, and has a citadel, but it is commanded by heights within musket-range, on the opposite side of a deep narrow ravine, through which flows the river Arpeh-chai. The 2 portions of the city, divided by the river, are united by a stone bridge. The Turks of kars have always been considered a turbulent and bad race of people, but the Pasha has succeeded in gaining an ascendency over them. Kars is the residence of a Pasha, the Kaimakam or governor of the Sandyak under the governor-general of the Eyalet (Erzeroom).

Leaving Kars, the road proceeds through a rich plain, containing numerous villages, one of which only is inhabited by Armenians, all the rest being possessed by Turks. At the extremity of the plain we ascend the Suvanli Dagh, which is covered with forests of Scotch fir. These forests supply Kars, Erzeroom, and Pasin with timber for building and firewood. The ascent is long and gradual, and the height about 5500 ft. above the sea; the descent is short and rapid, ending on the banks of the Aras, on the plain of Pasin, which is remarkable for its fertility. Innumerable Armenian families emigrated from Pasin with the Russian army, so that most of the villages are only half inhabited. This plain is separated from that of Erzeroom by a low range of hills 800 to 1000 ft. above the level of the sea, called the Deveh Bozini, or the Camel’s Neck.

Karahamza, 8 h.

Mezingherd, 10 h.

Khorassan, 4 h.

Hassan Kaleh, 8 h. – See Rte. 33.

Erzeroom, 6 h,; 109 h. from Batoom. See Rte 33.