Hours.
Gaybaissa	6
Ismid	5½
Sabanja	4½
Khan Dag	6
Doozchi	7¼
Boli	6¼
Garidi	6
Hummumloo	5¼
Karajular	6¼
Karajorem	4
Kajasir	4¼
Tosia	5⅓
Hadji Hamza	5¾
Osmanjik	4½
Marsivan	8
Amasia	4¾
Turkal	7½
Tokat	8
Niksar	9
Isscassar	5
Koyla Hissar	9
Kara Hissar	8
Shayran	12¾
Kalket	2¾
Kara Koulah	7½
Ashkala on the Euphrates	10½
Erzeroom	6¼
Hassan Kaléh	5
Khooli	10
Kanous Kouremai	8
Yangali	10
Lata	5
Tash Koun	6
Ardjieh	11
Djanik	12
Van	8

(Cross to Skutari.)

Gaybaissa, 6h. of rapid travelling: a delightfully constructed town, with a splendid mosque and numerous minarets, surrounded by a high wall and majestic cypress-trees. It is the ancient Lybissa where Hannibal died. The road passes over a bare and hilly country, where appear the white stones of the Roman pavement. 3 h. From Ismid, on the gulf, is the little village of Heraka.

Ismid, or Isnikmid, 5½ hours (see Rte. 32). The road crosses a fine plain, watered by several torrents: the scenery becomes very striking. E. are extensive chains of mountains, covered with majestic timber, and well-cultivated hills.

Sabanja, 4½ h. ¾ h. hence is a small lake, along the shores of which the road lies; it then continues for 5 h. through the forest.

Khan Dag, 6 h. A romantic village in the forest, surrounded by gardens and fruit-trees. The road leads through the forest, and then passes the ruins of an aqueduct and of a temple. It crosses a bridge over the Mandaris, and continues through the woods to another deep river running into the Melar or Mandaris. We cross this river, and subsequently ford the Mandaris.

Doozchi, 7¼ h. A small town situated in the centre of the forests. Between this place and Boli the scenery is at times fine, and the eminences over which the road passes command extensive views; the road lies, however, chiefly through the forest, and is very bad.

Boli, 6¼ h., situated in a rich and populous plain, watered by a river bearing the same name. The road now ascends through forests, and passes many remains of Greek and Genoese architecture, and several cemeteries. We at length enter upon a country diversified by hills, rivers, villages, and lakes, the district being populous and well cultivated.

Garidi, 6 h. The road lies through forests and valleys to

Hummumloo, or Humanli, 5¼ h., on the banks of the Bamder Su, the ancient Parthenius– a ruined town. We now ascend a mountain ridge, and descend through a fine forest to Chirkiss, a very pretty but ruined town.

Karajular, 6¼ h. A neat village, built of wood, with a neat mosque. Hence the country becomes open and uninteresting.

Karajorem, 4 h. A neat little town. The same tame scenery continues.

Kajasir, 4¼ h. The scenery soon begins to improve again, and the mountains on each side are wooded. In an open plain, about 5½ h. From Kajasir, is a guard-house.

Tosia, 5½ h. The noble minarets and some old Christian buildings are the only objects worthy of notice. The only articles of trade here are green morocco and camlet, made from the Angora wool. Leaving the town, we pass a succession of fountains on each side of the road; then cross a fine valley sown with rice. The road then follows the Halys or Kizil Irmak. A range of bold mountains appear on the other side, with numerous towns and villages on their slopes; the junction of valleys, and several mountain-streams which join the Kizil Irmak, produce a pleasing variety of scenery.

Hadji Hamza, 5¾ h. A neat country town surrounded by fruit-trees. The road ascends by a narrow paved road cut on the side of the mountain, and descends into a picturesque valley. It subsequently crosses the Kizil Irmak over an old stone bridge of 15 arches.

Osmanjik, 4½ hours. A town and fort situated on the rt. bank of the Kizil Irmak; the rock on which the fort is built terminates close to the river, which the natives call Arabistan Su, water of Arabia. We now travel over a rich and luxuriant country, covered with gardens and vineyards, then cross a range of hills and see some curious hills of mineral ore. To this succeed delightful valleys, and we then enter a defile and pass the village of Hadji, celebrated for its manufacture of stirrups. In the mountains, at some distance, are silver-mines.

Marsivan, formerly Eudocia, 8 hours. In an extensive plain. Neat marble fountains are placed at short distances on each side of the road. We now pass over a romantic country high in the hills, and descend into a plain in which is situated the city of

Amasia, 4¾ h. celebrated as the birthplace of Mithridates and Strabo. The situation of the town is highly picturesque; it is placed in the bottom of a deep, narrow, rocky valley, or rather gorge, through which flows a fine river, the ancient Iris, now called Yeshil Irmak. The remains of a fine Genoese castle are seen on the top of a perpendicular rock. Beneath it are number of chambers, galleries, passages, &c., excavated in the rock, amongst which the Hellenic walls, the tombs of the old kings of Pontus, and the water-galleries described by Strabo, are the most interesting. Close to the river, in the centre of the town, is a superb mosque with its gilded dome and minarets, rising splendidly amidst the remains of Genoese art. Among the ruins of several ancient mosques are fragments of Saracenic architecture of great beauty, which deserve to be carefully drawn. Numbers of mills are seen on the banks of the river, throwing water into the gardens which surround the town.

The road now winds round a picturesque chain of hills and then passes through a narrow chasm in the rocks. We now enter an extensive plain, passing through which we again ascend through forests.

Turkal, 7¼ hours. A small town with an old castle built upon a rock in the centre, thought by some to be the ancient Sebastopolis, which by others is identified with Sivas. The road proceeds over low hills, and crosses a fine stone bridge on approaching.

Tokat, the ancient Phazemon, 8 hours, is situated at the mouth of a defile on the banks of a small stream, and so surrounded on 3 sides by mountains as to render the heat intolerable in summer. For 3 m. above the town the valley is filled with gardens and vineyards. The town contains 6730 families, among which there are 1500 Armenian, 30 Catholic, 150 Greek, and 50 Jewish families. The two former are very wealthy. The importance of Tokat, as a commercial mart, has passed away, and there are now few symptoms of its being an active commercial city, but it still possesses very extensive copper furnaces, in which the black copper ore, brought from Arganeh-maden on mule and camel-back, is smelted. They employ many persons, and the coppersmiths are a numerous body. Between Tokat and Niksar is a range of well-wooded mountains.

Niksar, once Neo-Cæsarea, 9 hours, contains 1000 houses; it is situated on the E. side of a very rich plain watered by the Lycus. The town is situated among a forest of fruit-trees. There are remains of the old Roman wall and castle of the same period. From Niksar the road traverses a very lofty range of mountains. The summit is far above the region of trees, and must be 6000 ft. high; thence, passing Isscassar, 5 h.; it continues among a lower range of mountains till it descends to

Koylah Hissar, 12 hours, on the Charshambah. The road follows the banks of the river till it ascends to

Kara Hissar, 12 hours, 70 m. from Niksar – a very elevated position. It contains 2500 houses, and carries on a considerable trade with the coast and the interior. Its communications are most active with Kerasunt, a fort on the Black Sea, 60 m. distant: see Rte. 54. There is an old castle on the summit of the isolated mountain round which the town is built. Near the town are extensive mines of rock alum, whence the town takes its distinctive appellation of Shebb-Khaneh, there being several other cities in Turkey called Kara Hissar, or black castle. The road passes through a luxuriant valley and crosses the Kara Boulac, or Kirisoun, by a stone bridge, and then enters a mountainous region whence a great traffic in alum and pitch is carried on through Trebizond to Constantinople. It again passes through a valley, and once more enters into forest scenery.

Shayran, 12¼ hours. A delightful Swiss-like village in a fertile valley.

Kalket, 2¾ hours. An interesting little village situated on a stream. Leaving Kalket, the traveler soon ascends the mountains called the Alma-lee-Dagler, by a succession of narrow valleys, and follows the course of a stream. Wolves, wild sheep, black bears, and the ibex are the inhabitants of these deserts. The scenery is very grand all the way to

Kara Koulah, 7½ h. An Armenian village. The houses in Armenia are excavated out of the earth, which is replaced over them, forming a roof, upon which grass grows and sheep and cattle pasture, being supported by wooden props inside, the windows and chimneys alone projecting above the surface. We now traverse a wild but woody region, and through mountainous scenery arrive at the Sheitan Dereh, or Devil’s Valley, which is often the resort of banditti. The road now follows the course of the Kara Su, or W. Euphrates, and continues on its rt. Bank to

Ashkala, 10½ h. The road soon after crosses the Euphrates, and passing through the village of Elija, reaches Erzeroom.

ERZEROOM, 6½ h., is the seat of a British Consulate. The khans are excellent. The town stands on a small hill at the foot of a mountain, with a double peak, called Deveh Dagh, the Camel Mountain, in an extensive and fertile plain between 30 and 40 m. long, and from 15 to 20 in its greatest breadth, watered by the Kara Su branch of the Euphrates. Around it on every side rise lofty mountains, many of whose summits are always covered with snow. In the rich grain countries which surround it, great numbers of good horses, fine mules, cattle, and sheep, are reared. From its situation, Erzeroom, though unfortified, commands the road from Persia to Constantinople, and is the first important place in Turkey, whether entered from Georgia or Persia. It is the chief city of the Eyalet which takes its name, and the residence of its Governor-General. The city is slowly rising from the ruin in which it was involved by the Russian occupation, and by the emigration of so many industrious Armenians. In 1827 its pop. was estimated at 80,000, and now it does not exceed 40,000, of which number about 30,000 are Turks, 5000 orthodox Armenians, and 2500 Catholic Armenians; but it fluctuates considerably on account of the vast numbers of strangers who constantly arrive and depart with the caravans. The modern Palace, including customs and police office, is the only house with a slanting and tiled roof. The new town is partly surrounded by an old castellated wall, of the date of the Genoese occupation, but a large part of the suburbs, where the principal bazars and shops are situated, is unwalled. A remarkable work, a deep ditch, was excavated round the suburbs to keep off the Russians, but was useless for that purpose. There are some curious ancient buildings in and around the citadel. There are nearly 30 tombs, in the form of circular towers, with conical stone roofs of early Saracenic architecture, varying in date from the twelfth to the sixteenth century. The most elegant buildings are 2 ruined medressehs or colleges; one of them conspicuous from its 2 graceful minarets (called Iki Chifteh), built of fine brick, fluted like Ionic columns, and partly enamelled with blue colour. They are covered with delicate arabesques. There are several very old and heavy Greek and Armenian churches. The winters here are intensely cold. The climate of Erzeroom is very severe, on account of the elevation above the sea, which is above 6000 ft. The plain formerly contained 100 populous and flourishing villages, some wholly and some partially Armenian, but, since the emigration of this people, they are only half inhabited, and a great portion of the plain lies waste. There is a weekly post to Constantinople. Wood for fuel is scarce and dear; the lower classes burn dried cow-dung. The chief trades are dyeing and tanning morocco leather.

From Erzeroom the road passes over some bare hills called the Camel’s Neck, and then lies through the valley to

Hassan Kaléh, 5 h. — the town of the plain — has been a considerable place, but is now a heap of ruins. It is placed on the side of a hill, is walled, and has an old Genoese castle on a rock above it, but it could not be made defensible on account of its vicinity to the mountains. See also Rte. 59. Leaving Hassan Kaleh we cross a small river, near which is a bath of mineral waters. The road crosses the plain to a neat village at the foot of the Kurdistan mountains. We now ascend the mountains and pass through a most rugged and inaccessible country. From some of the mountains, the scenery is of a mingled and picturesque character; one hour the traveler is surrounded with snow, and the next traveling through groves of trees, with the Araxes at some distance below him.

Khooli, 10 h. A village ½ an 1h. from the Araxes. We now ford the Araxes and, passing through a beautiful narrow valley, ascend the Bin Guil (1000 springs) mountains, whose appearance is very barren and wild. The Araxes and Euphrates take their source in these and the neighboring mountains.

Kanous Kouremai, 8 h. A considerable Armenian town on the banks of a small river. Here there is a very old ch. close to the town. In the cemetery which surrounds it are some curious tombstones, with figures sculptured on them, representing horses ready saddled, rams, &c. The whole must have been the work of many ages past. After traveling for 3 h. we ascend and cross some very fine mountains, whence the road descends to the banks of the Murad Chai or eastern Euphrates, which is crossed on a raft. The breadth is here about 100 yards, and the current is very gentle, but deep; its waters are turbid and particularly cold.

Yangali, 10 h. A well-peopled Christian village. This place is 10 h. from Mosh. ¾ of an h. brings us to another considerable Armenian village containing a pop. of 2000 souls. We now proceed over a well-cultivated valley, up a gentle ascent, and pass a monastery on the rt.

Lata, 5 h. A populous town, governed by a bey, having a garrison of 1000 men. The road still lies over a mountainous country.

Tash Koun, 6 h. We now pass through a beautiful country of meadows and picturesque hills, and in 4 or 5 h. come down to the lake of Van and ford a torrent near

Ardjieh, 11 h. An old ruined stone-built town, with a garrison of a few Turks. The road now lies round the lake. About 7 h. from Tash Koun, we cross a deep and rapid river by an old stone bridge.

Djanik, 12 hours.

From Djanik to Van, the road still skirts the lake. The scenery is very grand, and the mountains of Kurdistan, on the opposite side of Van, have a bold and majestic appearance, rising beyond the limpid waters of the lake. Directly opposite to Van is Bitlis, a very considerable town, well peopled by Turkish Kurds and Armenians. The latter carry on a considerable trade in tobacco, which is cultivated in the neighborhood and transported to Erzeroom and Constantinople, where it is esteemed for its excellent quality. See Route 61.

Van, 8 hours, is situated in a large plain, said to be 12 farsaks (43 English miles) in circuit, studded with villages and gardens. It stands about 5600 feet above the level of the sea. The imposing mountains of Warak, Sipan Dagh, and Erdoz are in full view, bounding the plain on the N. N. W. and N. E., while W. is the beautiful lake of Van, distant 1½m. The rock of Van is a most striking object; it is shaped like a camel’s back, rising in the center and falling at both ends. The ridge, 600 yards long, is divided into 3 parts. The rock stands alone in the midst of the plain and is therefore the more remarkable in its appearance. The middle part is separated from the ends by dikes cut through the solid rock, so that each part is a separate fortification. On the N. face of the rock, there are 5 tiers of walls and bastions. The fortifications and castle are now in ruins. The town, placed under the S. face of the rock, is enclosed with a wall of mud and stone and partly protected by a ditch. The population, including the suburbs, is said to consist of between 12,000 and 15,000 people, 2000 of whom are Armenians, and the rest chiefly Turks: the Kurds are but few. The increasing trade of the town is in the hands of Armenians. The town contains 2 large churches, 4 large mosques, 2 baths, and 2 caravanserais. The streets are narrow but tolerably clean. Each house has latticed windows to the street. Over every door are inscribed the words "Allahu Akber," God is great. The manufactures consist of the coarse cotton chintzes worn by the Kurds and Turks; cotton and corn are imported from Persia. The rock on which the castle stands bears several ancient cuneiform inscriptions in the Assyrian character. On the S. side is a trilingual tablet of Xerxes, son of Darius; on the same side, round the entrance to certain caves excavated in it, and probably tombs, are other inscriptions, arranged in 8 parallel columns, amounting to 300 lines. They are the records of a king whose name is deciphered Arghistis. On the N. side are others, 5 in number, the largest containing 25 lines. They have been copied and examined by Mr. Layard and others. Below these chambers and inscriptions, at the foot of the rock, are gardens called Khorkhor.

The lake of Van is 25 or 30 m. long and 9 to 12 broad, yet it has the appearance of being double that extent. A few boats are employed on it in trading between Van, Akhlat, and Teetvan, on the W. side. The latter place is remarkable on account of Khosrew Pasha’s caravanserai, chapel, mosque, and baths, built A.H. 980 = A.D. 1570.

Van, from its strength and position, was probably a place of importance in very remote antiquity, a supposition which is in some degree confirmed by the inscriptions on the rock. St. Martin, the historian of Armenia, says that, according to traditions of the Armenians, Van was a very ancient city, founded by Semiramis, and called by her Shemiramgerd. So late as the 14th century, there existed buildings attributed by the natives to the ancient sovereigns of Asia, which were of such ponderous construction that they resisted the efforts of the soldiers of Timur Leng for their destruction. Ruined in the lapse of time, the city of Semiramis was rebuilt by King Van, who lived a short time previous to the expedition of Alexander the Great; it again fell into decay and was restored by Vagh Arshag, brother to Arsaces, the 1st king of the race of the Arsacidœ, 150 B.C. The city fell successively into the hands of the Seljukis, Timur Leng, the Turkomans, and finally of the Osmanlis, who captured it in 1533 and have retained possession of it to this day. The Greek name ascribed by St. Martin to Lake Van is Arsissa.

Erehek, a village containing 100 houses, 2m. distant from the E. side of the lake Erehekjun. 15 m. farther is the boundary between Persia and Armenia.