Hours	Miles.
Manser (Magnesia)	9
Aksá (Thyatira)	8
Soma	6
Bergama (Pergamos)	7½
Karaveren	6
Kemereh	8
Adramyti	3
Chetme	1 day
Beahrahm (Assos)	1 day
Alexandria Troas	8½
Enaeh	3½
Bounarbashi (Old Troy)	-	15
(Return to Eneah)
Hallil Elly, by Sheblak	11	27
(Ilium Novum)
Chanak Kalessi (Dardanelles)		25
Abydos		4

Smyrna for Magnesia, the road passes over the Caravan-bridge, the land gate, or entrance to the city: 12m. From Smyrna it reaches an elevated valley amidst the hills— a beautiful spot, surrounded by cypress and plane trees. The scenery is lovely all the way from Smyrna; and the valleys are enriched with the fig, the vine, the olive, the plane, the stone-pine, and wild pear.

Magnesia ad Sipylum, 9 h. (now called Manser), lies on the S. bank of the Hermus, at the foot of a fine range of hills, backed by Mount Sipylus, in whose perpendicular face are many entrances to caves, which are evidently tombs of a very early date. The khan is as extensive as an Italian palace, built entirely of iron and stone, with dome-topped rooms. It contains nothing but bare walls, but is very clean. The road now crosses the Hermus by a bridge, and the Hyllus by a ferry, and bears E. up the valley of Hyllus. At the half-way house to Aksá (Thyatira), are seen the remains of columns of white and red marbles, said by the people to have been brought from Sardis. As we approach Aksá, the country becomes low and marshy.

Thyatira (Aksá), 8 h. — one of the Seven Churches. The town is full of the relics of a splendid ancient city, though no trace of the site of any early building remains. The streets are, in many parts, paved with fragments of carved stone, and innumerable columns and fragments are to be found in a burial-ground. For 2 m. out of the town the mouths of the wells are formed by the capitals of very fine Corinthian columns. The road lies W.N.W. from Aksá through a rich, cultivated, and picturesque country. 20 m. from Aksá, a fine valley opens, in which are seen Kirkagatch, and, immediately in front, Bakir. The road lies close under the cliffs. The stone-pine is very fine here, and the hedges are of arbutus, jasmine, myrtles, and clematis. No relics of antiquity are seen on this route.

Soma, 6 h. 3 m. off are some Byzantine remains of a town, perched on the peak of a rock, surrounded on all sides by mountains. The road to it is through a ravine, clothed with splendid planes and walnut-trees. Leaving Soma, after a gentle rise from the valley, the plains of Pergamos, watered by the Caicus, open before the traveller. Within 8 m. of Pergamos is a trough, which was the inverted lid of a sarcophagus, and a little farther on are some fountains, with long Greek inscriptions on them.

Pergamos (Bergama), 7½ h., about 32 m. — one of the Seven Churches. No guide is required here, for the splendid ruins speak for themselves. The site of the theatre embraces in its view the city and the plain of Pergamos, with its chain of mountains, and is lit by the rising sun, In the centre of the city is a ruin of such extent that it must have been the palace of a Roman emperor. This palace stands partly on a bridge of splendid masonry, so wide that it forms a tunnel a furlong in length. Besides this bridge there are 4 others. Many of the mosques and khans occupy the site of ancient buildings; the most interesting is a mosque, from its style, doubtless, a church of the early Christians. The amphitheatre to S.W. of the castle is a wonderful building, with a river running through it. The arches are of very fine workmanship, though now almost under ground; and the upper ones have probably been as fine, but are now all chipped, like those of the Coliseum at Rome. Triumphal arches and ruined houses are intermixed with Turkish huts, and the burial-grounds are full of beautiful relics.

From Bergama there are 2 modes of reaching Assos: 1st, through Adramyti; 2nd, through Aivali, and thence in a boat to Assos.

1st. The road through Adramyti leads into the mountains; on the right, in 2 places, are the remains of aqueducts. The hills are covered with stone-pines and plane-trees, and the underwood is dwarf oak.

Karaveren, 6 hrs.; 15 m. A mountain village, scarcely containing a dozen huts. Near Karaveren are some remains of antiquity. The mountain pass still continues to

Kemereh, 8 hrs. The valley of Kemereh is highly cultivated. There are some columns and other relics here, but of a later date than the Greek.

Adramyti, 3 hrs. With the exception of a few coins, no traces of antiquity are to be found here. From Adramyti the road lies for 2 hours through olive-woods, and along the coast, or gulf, which takes its name from the town, and then through woods of the finest timber. The underwoods is of myrtle, sometimes 20 feet high, Daphne laurel, and arbutus.

Chetme. — A little village in a ravine high above the sea. Here there is no khan; and the traveller must throw himself upon the hospitality of the governor. The road now lies by the sea-shore; the hills are clothed to the top with evergreens. The approach to Beahrahm is very imposing.

2nd. The route by Aivali is much shorter than the preceding, and avoids the 2 or 3 days spent in going round by Adramyti. The distance from Bergama to Aivali is only 12 h. At 3 and 5 h, distance from Bergama are small khans or coffee sheds, At 7 h. is another just off the road; on the 1. upon the sea-shore, and 2 h. beyond, is a village 1 m. to the rt. of the road. The road is quite level the whole way. At Aivali boats can always be had to cross in a few hours to Assos. For Aivali see p.171.

Beahrahm (ancient Assos). A small wood near the town is thickly interspersed with the lids of sarcophagi. The town and the Acropolis are each surrounded by a Greek wall, very perfect, and in many parts 30 ft. high. The rocks round the town rise 60 or 80 ft., in abrupt cliffs, each of which was formerly crowned with a temple. In the Acropolis, columns, triglyphs, and friezes lie all around; in one place 30 Doric columns are placed in a line as a fence. The Acropolis commands a fine view of the island of Mitylene, and the river and plain. The whole of the hill is covered with ruins of temples, baths and theatres of the best workmanship. The seats of the theatre remain, but present the appearance of having been displaced by an earthquake. The buildings were all of the grey stone of the rock. Many inscriptions still remain. The Via Sacra, or street of the tombs, extends for miles. Some of the tombs still remain perfect, but most of them have been opened. In the line of the tombs are circular seats, like those at Pompeii. Between the Via Sacra and the town is a wall, of Cyclopean architecture. Of Assos, Leake says that the remains “give perhaps the most perfect idea of a Greek city that anywhere exists.”

From Beahrahm, the road lies first over barren hills, and then over hills covered with a beautiful species of oak.

Near Doosler, 16 m. from Beahrahm, the hills are clothed with little vegetation. The strata are of various colours, and the valley is barren. The hills become afterwards less lofty, and are entirely clothed with oak. The people are here employed a great part of the year in collecting the large acorn-cups and gall-nuts of dye. Near Alexandria Troas, the hills become a mass of shells. One of them contains hot springs of a temperature about 140° Fahrenheit.

Alexandria Troas, by the Turks called Enaeh, 8½ hours. The ancient city was sometimes called Alexandria simply, and sometimes Troas. Its site is now covered with a forest of oak-trees, and it is therefore impossible to see its ruins collectively, but they extend over many miles. The ancient port is highly interesting, and hundreds of columns lie scattered there in all directions. A pier likewise stands out under water — its situation is shown by the breakers. Opposite is the isle of Tenedos, and to the N.W. Imbros. One immense broken column lies in the harbour. About a mile from the sea are some ruins, on a very grand scale, containing some fine arches of a building which must have formed a square. Within the walls the ground is strewn with carvings, pedestals, &c. This building, which must have been the public baths, as shown by recent tourists, is vulgarly termed by mariners the palace of Priam, and is visible at a considerable distance at sea. Near this is a rectangular platform, supported by strong arches, evidently the site of a temple, and commanding a splendid view. Another foundation of a similar kind, but semicircular, lies near it. In many other buildings the stones are placed on their angles so as to form a kind of Mosaic. The present village does not consist of more than 8 or 10 houses, only 2 of which are occupied; one by a singular character who calls himself Consul, and receives travellers.

When at Alexandria Troas the traveller would do well to visit the Hellenic fortress of Chigri, situated to the S.E. of Eski Stamboul, at about 3 h. distance. This fortress stands on a rocky hill of great natural strength and of an oblong form. The walls, which are very perfect, run along the crest of the hill, taking advantage of all the natural indentations. The length of the fortress is about 1900 paces, its breadth 520 paces. At intervals are gateways with monolithic lintels and jambs, and defended by flanking towers and abutments. Within the circuit of the walls are the remains of houses. There is no trace of inscriptions anywhere; and, except in one gateway, no sculptural ornaments are to be found. The whole of the fortifications are built with vast rectangular blocks of granite without mortar. This fortress, though probably of a much later period than Tiryns and Mycenæ, is on a much larger scale and in far better preservation.

The road bears eastward to a hill containing hot springs; from the number of arched buildings for baths and fountains on its sides, it has the appearance of a honeycomb. Following a paved road for 1⅓m., we find by the way-side an immense granite column lying unbroken among the bushes. In 2 hrs. we reach Gaicle, thence a walk of a mile to a gorge in the hills leads to the quarry, where the Seven Columns are to be seen, in form and measurement precisely the one which lies on the road, and, like that on the beach at Troas, 38 ft. 6 in. long; the diameter at the top 4 ft. 6 in., that at the base 5 ft. 6 in. These columns are the largest in the East, except the one at Alexandria in Egypt, which they much resemble. They have been cut out of the bed of granite with great neatness.

The ruins of Crisool and Criser are on 2 adjoining summits of this range of mountains. After passing a woody summit, a fine view of the whole of the Troad bursts upon the eye. Ida, capped with snow, and the amphitheatre of mountains which encircle the valley of the Mendereh, or ancient Scamander, are its most prominent features.

Enaeh, 3½ hours, a large village of mud cottages, 150 of which are Turkish, and 50 Greek. The baths are in a neat building. The khan is comfortable. From Enaeh an excursion of 15 m. may be made to the site of Old Troy. Closeto Enaeh is a tumulus, called Eneas’s tomb: it is now a Turkish burial-ground. The Mendereh receives the stream on which the town stands, and is here a large river traversed by a wooden bridge; the only other crossing is by a bridge near the mouth of the river on the plain of Troy; but at some seasons of the year the river may be forded, which enables the traveller to go from Old to New Troy, without returning to Enaeh. The ride along the western bank is very picturesque; and 2 m. before reaching Bounarbashi, the road leaves the river, and passes over a range of hills, commanding a view of the continents of Europe and Asia, and the islands of Imbros and Tenedos. This part of the coast of the Troad, sheltered from the S.W. by the island Tenedos, forms the well-known roadstead of Besika Bay, where the English and French fleets first coalesced, 1853.

Bounarbashi, called by Europeans Old Troy, stands at the end of a chain terminating in 2 mountains, between which the river descends into the plains, which extend 15 m. to the sea. A few relics of past days have been worked up into the mud of the hovels, but the remains of ancient Troy are at the distance of about a mile to the E. of the village. On ascending the hill in that direction first appear 2 tumuli, one of which is supposed to be the tomb of Hector, from the circumstance of its being a barrow of loose stones, such as Homer describes. There are no remains on the hill which can be attributed with certainty to the heroic age; the situation, however, seems a probable one for an ancient citadel. On the E. side the hill terminates in a steep precipice overlooking the Mendereh, which winds in a ravine below.

The sources of the Scamander— the one cold and the other tepid— cannot be mistaken, and they point out the site of the Scӕan Gate towards the S.W. of the modern village.

Return to Enaeh.

The road to Sheblak follows the E. bank of the river for about 8 m., and then arrives at the mountain opposite the one which is supposed to be the site of Old Troy. Proceeding N. it reaches Sheblak, said to be the site of New Troy. Here among some oaks are an immense number of columns and remains of temples strewed over a Turkish burial-ground. In the plain below is a tumulus, called the Tomb of Ilus.

Hallil Elly, 27 m. from Enaeh. Here also there are a great many more remains scattered over half a mile of country, amongst which are to be traced the foundations of several small temples, one of which must have been that of Thymbrian Apollo, where Paris killed Achilles. The stream running past these ruins is now called the Tumbrek, evidently a corrupt form of its ancient name. The road passes over small limestone hills, on the brow of a range of which, forming the Asiatic frontier of the Dardanelles, is the village of Renköi half-way, where the British Consul resides.

Chanak Kalessi, 25 m. One half of his town was destroyed by fire, but is rapidly rising again. It is of considerable extent; its Turkish name, Chanak Kalessi, signifies “Pot Castle,” from its manufactures of crockery. It is called by us the Dardanelles. The whole distance from Enaeh may be traversed in 11 hours.

Abydos, 4 m. N.E. of this place. No traces of the ancient town remain, except the foundation-wall of a building of considerable size, and were it not for the interest of a two-fold poetic association, it would be unnoticed by travellers.

WRITTEN AFTER SWIMMING FROM SESTOS TO ABYDOS

If, in the month of dark December,
       Leander, who was nightly wont
(What maid will not the tale remember?)
       To cross thy stream, broad Hellespont!—

If, when the wintry tempest roar’d,
       He sped to Hero, nothing loth,
And thus of old thy current pour’d,
       Fair Venus! How I pity both!

For me, degenerate modern wretch,
       Though in the genial month of May,
My dripping limbs I faintly stretch,
       And think I’ve done a feat to-day.

But since he cross’d the rapid tide,
       According to the doubtful story,
To woo, — and — Lord know what beside,
       And swam for Love, as I for Glory;

’Twere hard to say who fared the best:
       Sad mortals! Thus the Gods still plague you!
He lost his labour, I my jest;
       For he was drown’d, and I’ve the ague.

May 9, 1810.

The 3 following routes diverge in different directions through the Troad, and are inserted for the benefit of those who wish to linger in these romantic spots. 

TOUR OF THE TROAD, A. BERGAMA OVER MOUNT IDA BY BEYRAMITCH TO THE TROAD AND KOUM KALEH

	Hours.
Avriamasti	8
Adramyti	9½
Narlen	6½
Beyramitch	8½
Enaeh	4½
Alexandria Troas	2½
Koum Kaleh	3

From Bergama the tour to the Troad lies over a delightful country. On every side are magnificent mountains and sea views. In the numerous villages and towns on the rte. the traveller will find khans for lodging, and there are several isolated coffee-houses on the way, where refreshments are to be obtained.

Avriamasti, 8 hours.

At Armootloo, 4½ hours from Avriamasti, is a road leading to Aivali, or Kidonia, a Greek town, once of some importance, 2 hours distant on the coast. It formerly commanded an extensive commerce, but its prosperity was destroyed in the revolutionary war of Greece.

Aivali rose under the auspices of John Economos, who, descended from one of the most ancient Greek families, had conceived the project of founding the prosperity of his native town, and rendering his own name immortal. After various repulses, he obtained from the Porte not only the government of the village, but a firman, prohibiting the Turks from residing in it. He gave a cordial reception to all the Greeks in the neighbourhood, and in a short time Aivali increased in an astonishing manner. Its government might be compared to a small republic, administered by its own laws, under the protection of the Porte. It boasted of a college, built in 1803, the beauty of the architecture of which did honour to its founders, and was the admiration of foreigners. It had 2 noble hospitals, situated without the town, in a healthy situation. There were 40 oil-mills, 30 soap-manufactories, several tanneries, and shops of all kinds in the town. But its college, its hospitals, and chapels have been swept away by ravages of war. In June, 1821, the Greeks, emboldened by recent successes, meditated several expeditions against the Asiatic continent...

Narlen, 6½ hours. A good village, on a height overlooking a charming valley, covered with olive-groves extending to the sea.

Between Narlen and Beyramitch the road crosses Mount Ida. The height of the mountain is very great, and the summit is often enveloped in clouds. The scenery is grand and the mountains are richly clothed with pines. The road crosses deep valleys over wooden bridges; and from the summit of the pass the view is extensive and magnificent.

Beyramitch, 8½ hours. A small town, beautifully situated on a hill commanding a view over a rich plain. A governor resides here.

An interesting excursion may be made from Beyramitch to the source of the Simoïs, through magnificent scenery, by a steep and rugged road to the village of Evegelli, 3½ hours.

2½ hours from this place is the source of the Simoïs. The water gushes out from a square aperture in the rock, and falls 50 ft. over a bed of stone. Numerous other streams issue from smaller fissures in the rock, and swell the principal stream. The view is beautiful and extensive. It comprises all the plains of Troy, and the district of Troas, a great portion of Asia Minor, extending from Constantinople to Smyrna.

There, on the green and village-cotted hill, is

      (Flank’d by the Hellespont, and by the sea)

Entomb’d the bravest of the brave, Achilles;

      They say so— (Bryant says the contrary):

And further downwards, tall and towering still, is

      The tumulus— of whom? Heaven knows; ‘t may be

Patroclus, Ajax, or Protesllaus;

      All heroes, who, if living still, would slay us.

High burrows, without marble, or a name,

      A vast, untill’d, and mountain-skirted plain.

And Ida in the distance, still the same,

      And old Scamander (if’t is he) remain;

The situation seems still form’d for fame—

      A hundred thousand men might fight again

With ease; but where I sought for Ilion’s walls,

      The quiet sheep feeds, and the tortoise crawls.

Troops of untended horses; here and there

      Some little hamlets, with new names uncouth;

Some shepherds (unlike Paris) led to stare

      A moment at the European youth

Whom to the spot their schoolboy feelings bear;

      A Turk, with beads in hand and pipe in mouth,

Extremely taken with his own religion.

      Are what I found there— but the devil a Phrygian.

Brnox

A different route may be taken in order to return to Beyramitch, the scenery of which is as grand as the former.

Enaeh	4½ hours.
Alexandria Troas	2½ hours.
Bounarbashi	2½ hours.
Koum Kaleh	3 hours. On the coast.

TOUR OF THE TROAD, B.	BOUNARBASHI, BY TURKMANLÉ, TO BEYRAMITCH
	Hours.
Araplar	1½
Bridge of Sarmosaktchi	1½
Enaeh	1
Turkmanlé	2½
Bounarbashi of Beyramitch	½
Beyramitch	1

Araplar, a village 1½ hour S.E. of Bounarbashi. The road proceeds through a valley where, in many places, may be observed the appearance of basaltic pillars.

Sarmosaktchi Köpri, or the Bridge of Sarmosaktchi, 1½ hour, is an old cemetery, 1. of the road, where, by way of gravestone, is a natural hexagonal basaltic pillar, 7 ft. high and 10 in. in diameter. It is of hard black basalt, without horizontal fissures, like the pillars of the Giant’s Causeway.

Enaeh, 1 hour. See page 169. In a cemetery close to the road are several basaltic pillars used as gravestones, mixed with artificial ones: of the latter are 12 of the Doric order. The road crosses an ancient bridge, and before entering Turkmanlé are some mounds and granite pillars, denoting the site of the ancient citadel or temple. The view of Mount Gargarus, the highest of the chain of Mount Ida, is very grand.

Turkmanlé, 2½ hours. There is a road from Turkmanlé to Assos.

Bounarbashi of Beyramitch, ½ hour, so named from its vicinity to the fountain-head of some very remarkable hot springs, three of which gush with great violence from artificial apertures into a marble reservoir constructed of ancient material. This beautiful basin is shaded by the finest oriental planes. The people of the place affirm that these springs are cold in summer and hot in winter, when, it is said, smoke ascends from them. The same story is told of those at Bounarbashi, the supposed site of Ilium. See p. 169.

Beyramitch, 1 hour.

Tour of the Troad, C.

BEYRAMITCH, BY KUCHUNLU TEPEH, TO MOUNT GARGARUS.

	Hours.
Kuchunlu Tepeh	2
Gogillar	3
Mount Gargarus	6
Gogillar	6

Kuchunlu Tepeh, 2 hours. A conical hill towards Gargarus, so placed as to resemble a sort of advanced position at the base of that mountain. The Simoïs flows at its foot. The principal site of the antiquities upon Kuchunlu Tepeh is half way up the hill.

The first appearance is an oblong area, 92 ft. long and 54 ft. wide. On the N. side are the remains of a part of a wall, by which the area was formerly enclosed. The work seems to be of the age of the Romans. On the western side of the area are considerable remains of baths, whose stuccoed walls are in some places entire. Above this area are tombs, and an arched vault 13 yds. long and 5 wide. Near it are the remains of a bath, wanting only the roof. Here lie some columns, 16 in. in diameter, among pieces of broken amphoræ and fragments of marble, granite, jasper, &c. Near this place is an immense Doric entablature, and the shaft of a Corinthian column. Higher up are the remains of another temple. A spacious winding road rises from these remains to the summit of the Kuchunlu. All the way up may be seen traces of former works; but on the summit a small oblong area exhibits marks of the highest antiquity. The stones forming the enclosure are as rude as those of Tiryns, and it is encircled by a grove of venerable oaks. E. and W., outside the trees, are ranged stones like the Druidical circles in England. From hence the view of Gargarus, and the bed and valley of Simoïs, is magnificent. The remains on the Kuchunlu Tepeh agree precisely in situation with the description of the temples and altars of Idӕan Jove by Homer, Ӕschylus, and Plutarch. The baths and warm springs confirm the supposition. The original temple was probably that of Jupiter Liberator.

Gogillar, 3 hours.

The ascent of Mount Gargarus commences here. Like Etna, this mountain is generally characterised by a triple zone; first of cultivated land, then of forests, and thirdly a region of snow and ice. The first may be traversed on horseback. During the first hour many remains of Greek chapels are met with, one of which is placed above a roaring torrent, in a situation of uncommon sublimity. The scenery is strikingly grand. In the region of forests are many wild boars; the path is tedious and difficult. Above the zone of forests all is bleak. The ascent is extremely difficult. There are 4 points of eminence on the mountain, each of which is higher than the other. If the traveller finds it possible to attain the highest of these summits, he will be amply rewarded by the spectacle before him, where the whole of European Turkey and Asia Minor seem, as it were, modelled on a vast surface of glass. Constantinople, the Sea of Marmora, the mountains of Brousa and Asiatic Olympus, the Propontis and the Hellespont, the shores of Thrace and Chersonesus, the North of the Egean, Athos, the Isles of Imbros, Samothrace, Lemnos, Tenedos Eubœa, the Gulf of Smyrna, almost all Mysia and Bithynia, and part of Lydia and Ionia, are included in this glorious panorama.

Descend to Gogillar. The whole excursion from Gogillar and back again requires 12 hours.